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PostPosted: Sun 16 Apr 2017, 5:40 pm 
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ok managed to install very simple job for big power gain.
made video enjoy
https://youtu.be/6zXypoVp2-E


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PostPosted: Sun 16 Apr 2017, 6:10 pm 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
Immaculate Stock 86 AC GSR
You could have used the 12v source and ground on the MAP sensor wire.........that way you wouldn't have to run separate wires.

The boost gauge should get above half way and go all the way to the top............did you install a boost controller yet?

The engine should have revved quicker than in the vid.

The idle will have nothing to do with the FCD.......do you have error codes?


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PostPosted: Sun 16 Apr 2017, 6:28 pm 
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electronic boost controller was set on 13psi.
engine idling at 1500rpm got me worried thought maybe i did something wrong.
so got the fcd dial to normal and idle came back to normal.
the good thing is i get no miss or cough. :D
i was going to set boost to 20 psi and give it a go but my kids came home
with their gf so will leave it for tomorrow . :D
i get 4 flashes on error code
i wasn't sure on the plug which wire is positive or negative so didn't won't to risk a fire


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PostPosted: Sun 16 Apr 2017, 8:46 pm 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
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Put the boost controller on 18psi and take for a drive (14 psi is the factory cut off)...........will go like hell!


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PostPosted: Mon 17 Apr 2017, 6:45 pm 
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Just re -read your post..........error code 4 is MAP sensor........you should not have this error, is the FCD wired up correctly?

Have found if wired opposite when the yellow wire is cut, can cause erratic idle conditions or not start at all on some models.


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PostPosted: Tue 18 Apr 2017, 2:23 pm 
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Ok I cut yellow wire .
Yellow wire from plug join to White wire on fcd.
Yellow wire going to ecu join to yellow wire on fcd.
That's what I understood from instructions of fcd.
I also have instructions on video.
The fcd has a Middle screw I think I can dial
8 turns ,one end it says fuel cut the other end
Says normal on the video I only dial to 1/2 way.
Car ran good no problems only set boost 13 psi.
Next Day start car cold put on 20 psi waited few min to warm up took if for drive car started running rough.
Got Little screw driver adjusted one turn down to normal.
Car started running good again.
There was few cars and people around decide to leave for another day


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PostPosted: Tue 18 Apr 2017, 3:31 pm 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
Immaculate Stock 86 AC GSR
Looks like your FCD is wired correctly, the ECU must be throwing an error when you turn the cut up due to the higher voltage, if voltage is too high at the sensor the error will occur. (as the ECU thinks the engine is under full load)

Measure the voltage at the MAP sensor with the ignition on, it should be clipped at around 3.8 volt.


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PostPosted: Tue 18 Apr 2017, 9:31 pm 
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i will next weekend .
atm car running good gets me to work and back im just busy
at work by time i get home just crash to tired .

Changing subject .
Bought knock sensor from gumtree while back
decided to try see if it works.
and it does but i think is of AC model left it on cause car running good
didn't see point in putting the AB knock sensor back .
My question is can engine over heat by using this?
reason i say this is yesterday took car to easter show drove around for 1h.
car got very hot almost hitting red.
pulled up side road shut car down waited for car to cool down.
i have 2 fans working .
1 fan was for a/c but connect it up and yes i used relay connected so both fans come on.
they work very well .
now this only happened when i changed knock sensors.
i checked coolant in radiator is full no leaks.
the reservoir has coolant to top line
so im curious what could cause it to over heat.
takes me 1hour to get to work im bit worried might over heat again.
today i swapped knock sensors so will see if that's the problem


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PostPosted: Wed 19 Apr 2017, 12:17 am 
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Technically no, only timing retard values changed between the AB & AC.........the cordia's do get hot though as coolant runs through the inlet manifold, the only way I can see it overheating is via having no thermostat.......the coolant won't cool in the radiator as the coolant moves too quickly.

Is your radiator in good condition?


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PostPosted: Wed 19 Apr 2017, 7:26 pm 
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i didn't think it was knock sensor cause it got pretty hot going to work.
can the cam timing cause over heating ?
the timing mark on cam was 2 tooth down from timing
mark on head.
also every time i slow down by clutch i here noises in exhaust like small
back fire noises.
it takes 1 hour to overheat if not driven.
my radiator is good.


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PostPosted: Wed 19 Apr 2017, 7:32 pm 
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Headgasket is culprit.


I say this cos you mention your fans are operating fine. Secondly, having no thermostat will actually run cooler. Will take forever for engine to warm up and to a point, will not cool down properly as it has no time to get colder from radiator, as its constantly flowing etc. So check if you have a thermostat installed, if yes, looks like the headgasket is the problem. Does it blow white smoke, coolant loss, check oil and see if its mixing with water.

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Last edited by TheChosen1 on Sat 22 Apr 2017, 11:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed 19 Apr 2017, 8:18 pm 
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TheChosen1 glad to see you back helping out really appreciate it.
i always thought engine run cooler without thermostat .
head gasket is fine no steam coming out the exhaust .
no oil in coolant spark plugs are good all checked .
also whats odd is oil level gauge the needle is right down on idle.
only goes up tiny bit when car moves.
checked oil is full .
here something i found.

Late timing: If your ignition system is malfunctioning, late timing may be causing your vehicle to overheat because the spark plugs are firing the fuel/air mixture after the piston moves back down from the top of its stroke. Late timing alone doesn’t cause an engine to overheat by more than a few degrees, but when coupled with other problems, it can bring the engine temperature to a critical point. Have a service facility place your vehicle on an electronic diagnostic machine to check your timing and adjust it if necessary.


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PostPosted: Wed 19 Apr 2017, 11:44 pm 
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fernandothecarguy wrote:
i always thought engine run cooler without thermostat .

This is correct, more mass flow through the radiator maintains a higher difference in temperature (at the rad) and therefore more heat transfer.


As Pedro mentioned the engine will run too cool, you will notice the heater not working in cold weather. In addition, the water temp will fluctuate greatly between cruise and WOT if the only source of regulation is removed.

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PostPosted: Wed 19 Apr 2017, 11:58 pm 
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are you saying runs cooler without thermostat or hotter ?
:lol: even my wife don't understand.
but im glad to see everyone helping out :D
thank you


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PostPosted: Thu 20 Apr 2017, 12:06 am 
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With the thermostat removed:

- The car will run too cold
- The heater will not work in cold weather and your wife will hate it!
- Engine temperature will fluctuate greatly between cruise and load, this over time does damage.

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PostPosted: Thu 20 Apr 2017, 12:28 am 
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i removed thermostat yesterday cause my son told me it should run engine
cooler but it didn't still over heats at least gets me to work and back.
hopefully i won't damage engine and need to check out on the weekend .
ok them why is engine over heating?
that is my question
thanks for response


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PostPosted: Thu 20 Apr 2017, 12:47 am 
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Boil some water with the thermostat in there, does it open up?

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PostPosted: Thu 20 Apr 2017, 7:42 am 
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yes


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PostPosted: Sat 22 Apr 2017, 12:26 am 
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Don't run your engine without a thermostat..........the ECU can't regulate fuel as the CTS is all over the place!!!!

My AC runs hot as well............looking at using the Galant thermostat neck with sensor and top hose to bring the fans on earlier as the sensor is in the hot side of the engine.

The cordia fan sensor sits on the bottom of the cold side of the radiator, therefore temps can increase even if the fan is blowing......poor design.


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PostPosted: Sat 22 Apr 2017, 12:00 pm 
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1. No matter what timing you set the dizzy at, it usually DOES NOT affect the cooling system to a point where the temp needle hits red line, or near to it. Secondly, there are two specific mechanical components that gets affected by deranged timing, that is, the engine and spark plugs. Too little or to much, depending on boost can blow your engine up or foul the spark plugs. The cooling system has zero consequences to timing adjustment. I believe you got the "getting hot" part, mixed up with spark plugs heat range settings. The two things that play up are the spark plugs, then engine.

2. You must install the thermostat for the engine to operate properly. I understand that you need transport at this time and taking out the thermostat is your last resort, so you get exemption at this time and is totally understandable. HOWEVER, taking out the thermostat is masking the engine overheating issue. You cannot diagnose the issue whilst it has a band aid. Taking out the thermostat is just buying you time. Its temporary. I have a good feeling the headgasket is blown, im 100% sure of it by the description your giving.

3. You confirmed earlier that the thermostat is opening whilst you tested it with boiling water, so thats one suspect issue eliminated. Fans working, thats another suspect problem eliminated. EVEN if you dont run any coolant, the temp should not be on the verge of hitting red. The engine in my opinion has a headgasket failure.

Recommendations:
Get a automotive thermometer probe and stick it in the radiator. keep an eye out on temperature when the thermofan kicks in. When does it activate?. Regardless, the factory cordia temp guage in the dash cluster is pretty accurate. In normal operating conditions, the temp needle should be just past the 2 horizontal lines of the orange temp tree graphic. Just a touch half way.

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