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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 19:24 
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I dont think copper spray is the ideal choice of sealant to bond a headgasket to head, unless its a true copper headgasket. Usually, Hylomer is the preferred choice. I doubt this no start engine problem is due to this.

This engine you currently cant start, is this the same engine you just fitted brand new piston rings with?

Lastly, cranking a dead stone cold engine is pointless when checking engine compression figures. Get the engine to operating temps, then do a comp test.

Check the timing belt, if its been lined up properly. Take cover off and take a pic of the cam wheel position.

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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 19:30 
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The Rotor button should be at the 6:35 position. Thats the correct alignment, and NOT 6:25.

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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 20:45 
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here is what it says on the can.

VHT Copper Gasket Cement has been formulated with the same ingredients as our world-renowned high temperature coatings. VHT Copper Gasket Cement maintains excellent adhesion under severe pressure and heat fluctuations. This high metallic formula assures tight seals on cork, paper and metal gaskets. VHT Copper Gasket Cement has been extensively tested on racing engines in the field and on dynamometers, where it has met and exceeded the high compression and high temperature requirements of these mega horsepower engines.

Temperature: n/a

Applications: Head Gaskets, Rubber Hoses, Cork Gaskets, Water Pump Gaskets, Threaded Fittings, AN Fittings, Paper Gaskets, Oil Pan Gaskets, Metal Gaskets

Coating System

i understand and thank you for your help.
i should have use it on a copper gasket but as you can see , it can be used on any gasket .
didn't see the harm in using it really.
i bought the rings for my old engine not for this one.
my intention is to build my old engine in case i blow this one up.
i just need to know why i don't even get any backfire it sparks,has fuel should at least backfire.
the timing i followed what the book says.
it was very simple put engine on TDC and used my book as you can see in the pic.
i also had my son look at it before i closed it up


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 21:00 
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1800 CORDIA
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Are you 180° out on the distributor? Take the upper timing cover off and make sure you are fitting the distributor with the cam in the right position.


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 21:08 
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TheChosen1 wrote:
The Rotor button should be at the 6:35 position. Thats the correct alignment, and NOT 6:25.


i have no idea did you look at the Andrews pic.
do you have a pic or can you draw what 6,35 is
i followed what book says them i did what Andrew said.
none works so far .
but im not going to quit ,hopefully i'll get my son tomorrow to look at it.
i had nothing but dramas since i install this engine from valves staying open from carbon build up,bolts broken from previus owner removing exhaust manifold and turbo.
a leaking inlet manifold,and the best one a blocked fuel line, i couldn't work out why i was not getting fuel lol
5 hours drive to pick up someones rubbish .
oh yeah thats what my son says to me :(
i mean common it has to be something small everything else is done lol


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 21:10 
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coop1er wrote:
Are you 180° out on the distributor? Take the upper timing cover off and make sure you are fitting the distributor with the cam in the right position.

i will try that,but shouldn't it backfire even if timing is out on dizzy?


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 21:19 
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you know what im going to pull the top cover now.
otherwise i wont be able to sleep tonight


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 22:03 
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Fernando, do exactly what im about to explain.

1. Remove the distributor nut.
2. Slide distributor out so its still in the head, but not engaged to the cam anymore. Slide out approx 3cms or so)
3. Position the rotor button downwards at 6oclock.
4. Gently push the distributor against the cam, just so there is contact/contact.
5. NOW, gently push the distributor in the head so the cam gear meshes with the dizzy gear.

When you complete the above, the rotor button will be, 1 notch, or 1 gear tooth in the clockwise resting position AKA 6:35 position. Thats the correct timing of the dizzy to the cam. If its incorrect by one tooth behind or forward, its very obvious and will not allow engine to run properly.

With this procedure complete, the dizzy is 100% set. You will have to look elsewhere for faults/correction/adjustment of the EFI system and timing.

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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 22:22 
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Im guessing he should do that when tdc ;)
I had the same issue with an old Mazda 929t of mine. Very similar issues. The whole
Fuel system was clogged. You'll get there Fernando, keep at it


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 23:03 
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ok as i said my timing is perfect
not going to remove the rest of the cover
i know timing is 100%.
took the top cover just to show you that the marking on the cam is perfect.
you can see in pic timing in crank pully @ TDC ,is white dot so not easy to see .
Removed dizzy so you can see the timing mark on it as i push dizzy in place.
rotor is at the point it should be.
as i said i have fuel going in ,i have spark means i have 12 volts at coil.
i pour petrol down the throttle i cranked it with throttle wide open.
cranked it till battery gave in.
there is NO backfire NO petrol fumes that i can smell.
my son going to have a try tomorrow battery should be ok by them.
i feel as tho this engine is just dead does not want to go regardless what i do.
its cursed :(


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 23:04 
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this one


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 20 May 2016, 23:18 
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i have done 4 cylinder engine in past toyota corona replace rings bearings etc.
i had hard time starting car cause i didn't no the way the dizzy was meant to go.
so the engine use to backfire or wanting to start by shaking like hell.this is the reason i know or i want to no why this one wont do it.
commonsense tells me its the compression,cause without compression engine will not start or backfire.
so i need to check it first thing


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 21 May 2016, 10:24 
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UPDATE:

spoke to my son about helping me with car.
his attitude was bad .
so i pretty much told him where to go.
decided don't need him.
this morning 6 am decided to remove 2 plugs thats connected to positive main cable.
connect the wires straight to the main as you see in pic.


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 21 May 2016, 10:30 
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crank the engine guess what she started :D
my god the smoke coming out exhaust white smoke but car started around 6.30am was dark outside
so looked like white smoke .
now it only stays on for 20 sec them it dies out any idea.
could it be cause of tps?


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 21 May 2016, 19:08 
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Wait until your error checker arrives (sent it yesterday)..........can you feather the throttle to keep it running?


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 21 May 2016, 20:42 
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thanks that will help big time.
i have to keep pumping the accelerator in order to keep it running for little longer.
its as if tho fuel is low im getting 20l of petrol tomorrow fill it up see what happens tomorrow .
didn't have much time today had friends over


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 21 May 2016, 22:57 
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At least you are getting there................slowly. :)


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 22 May 2016, 12:46 
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We all get there slowly. But glad to hear that it's running! Very exciting


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 22 May 2016, 14:26 
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UPDATE:

tank is full petrol.
no change got to keep pumping accelerator in order for engine to stay alive.
i believe its TPS.
i will wait for tool thingy before i pull TPS black cover.
i have checked fuel pressure and good constant amount comes out .
the other thing could it be the gasket that i put in throttle body ?


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 Post subject: Re: engine
PostPosted: 22 May 2016, 14:44 
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1800 CORDIA
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tank is full petrol.
no change got to keep pumping accelerator in order for engine to stay alive.
i believe its TPS. I doubt it
i will wait for tool thingy before i pull TPS black cover.
i have checked fuel pressure and good constant amount comes out . You measured the fuel pressure at idle and got 36psi?
the other thing could it be the gasket that i put in throttle body ? No

Sounds like it is lacking fuel.

Are both fuel injectors firing?
Is the fuel pressure 36psi?
Are the injectors that you reconditioned flowing the correct amount with good pattern?


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