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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 12:08 
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thermostat opens but very small space like 1 mm with very hot water.
not sure if that's how in meant to be.
got me another new thermostat put in left car running almost 1hour
made video.
https://youtu.be/rTi4x-F6vJI
the oil gauge is low as well.
if head gasket was blown oil would fill in radiator
or plugs no oil in radiator but a lot of water or coolant came out reservoir
to my driveway


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Last edited by fernandothecarguy on 22 Apr 2017, 12:35, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 12:19 
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Just past the two lines as i mentioned. If your temp needle is mm or in, or past the line way at the top of the guage, it has to be a Blown head gasket.

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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 12:25 
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I just watched the video. Unfortunately, thats a blown head gasket Fernando. The radiator fans are constantly on trying to cool down etc. The bubbling sound is the water boiling inside. Maybe the engine was just old or something, bugger man.

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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 12:42 
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i find hard to believe no signs of oil in water.
i had radiator cap replaced 6 months ago cause old one the rubber perished
had water escaping through reservoir just like now but cap looks fine


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Last edited by fernandothecarguy on 22 Apr 2017, 12:54, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 12:48 
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fernandothecarguy wrote:
thermostat opens but very small space like 1 mm with very hot water.
not sure if that's how in meant to be.
got me another new thermostat put in left car running almost 1hour
When you mentioned the above, sounded quite possible why the engine is overheating, but since you replaced the thermostat with a new one and the problem still persists, its now a more serious issue, such as a blown head gasket.


PS: What condition is the water pump. Can you see and feel water flowing in the radiator cap area, if not, possibly the water pump is broken, highly, highly rare.

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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 12:50 
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Water doesn't necessary have to mix with oil to be a blown head gasket, It can be combustion gases entering the cooling system also. There is usually two types:

Type 1: Oil and water mixing. (To much boost or corrosion).
Type 2: Combustion gases entering cooling system. (To much boost or corrosion).

If its indeed the headgasket, it would be the 2nd type of failure from the above list.



But yeh, check water pump belt drive. external belt.

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Last edited by TheChosen1 on 22 Apr 2017, 12:55, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 12:51 
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So you put a new thermostat in and shot the video?

Do both top and bottom radiator hoses get hot, or does the bottom one stay cold?


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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 13:00 
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Process of elimination:

1. Does the engine still have the accessory belt, if yes, look at 2.
2. Check to see if water is flowing inside the radiator cap, torrent of water/heat etc, if yes, and engine still overheats = Blown head gasket.


If the water pump shaft was broken, you would hear it, but cos its not, its definetly the HG.

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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 13:11 
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ok can't remember exact time i turned car off im thinking 40min ago
top hose is warm bottom hose cold at the moment .
made another video
https://youtu.be/0i6Hfmc-_-o


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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 13:21 
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The noise is most likely the internal steel coil in the top radiator hose to prevent inversion, or distortion of the hose etc. Take the hose out and see if its blocked by anything.

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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 13:25 
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The noise is normal, its the bypass on the top ring of the thermostat, run the car again, this time with the radiator cap off, make sure both hoses are hot......if you see bubbling or water being pushed out after the thermostat has opened it's a head gasket.


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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 14:11 
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ok this might answer questions .
https://youtu.be/YnMNABmpWaU


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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2017, 14:22 
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Did the car get any hotter after the video?

Did you replace the coolant recently?

You may just have had an air lock in the system, looks like the temp is stable in the video.

Put your FCD back on "normal", the signal running back to the ECU may be causing the engine to overheat as it thinks the engine is under load, this could also be the cause of the fuel smell.


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PostPosted: 23 Apr 2017, 00:14 
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ok thank you guys for help.
it sounds as TheChosen1 has a point
also Andrew has good point.

question for TheChosen1:
if gases enters radiator wouldn't water be steaming out exhaust?

Andrew has good point fcd could be cause.
so i decided to redo timing yes it was a pain took me all day.
tomorrow i will put fcd back to normal.
made another video it will explain what i'll be doing tomorrow .

https://youtu.be/bxiQoi0hFek


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PostPosted: 23 Apr 2017, 12:14 
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ok got thermostat out .
put them both in boiling water to see which one opens more.
the old one opens more you can see in pics.
next flushed out radiator and engine was big mess rust mud coming out.
put my old thermostat back in as opens better them new one.
fill radiator with water only just in case its HG, started car.
this is the result.
https://youtu.be/PkbboLfw-Dg


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PostPosted: 23 Apr 2017, 13:02 
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Done a great job there Fernando, the ISC will open the throttle under electrical load (fans on) to stop the engine from stalling.

Nice to see now that your fans turn on and off, this means no more overheating.

Still not happy with error code 4 though........did it clear when you turned it back to normal?


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PostPosted: 23 Apr 2017, 13:11 
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nope .
i also reset ecu hoping error code would go away .
it only lasted 1 min started flahing


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PostPosted: 23 Apr 2017, 17:47 
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took car for long drive didn't over heat :D

this thread is about fcd so here is a pic of it


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PostPosted: 23 Apr 2017, 17:51 
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From what I have read on this model, 2 should be pointing to the white arrow in the middle of the FCD.

It's currently set on 12...........might be your problem.


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PostPosted: 23 Apr 2017, 18:01 
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i will set it up on 2 next weekend , if it doesn't do anything, i will swap wires.
if it works,i will install bigger injectors them watch the power cause i will have on video.
for now i need rest cyas next weekend


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