As people are having issues with the E101 module
I thought i'd pull one apart to see whats involved in
fixing it.
This has worked for me, and maybe a common fault
considering the age and heat they work in.

Only do this if you think or know its faulty [ you have
nothing to loose if the E101 does'nt work anyway]

Tools soldering iron
solder
desolder braid or solder sucker
side cutters
dremel or stanly knife
47uf 16 volt electrolytic capacitor 125 degree temp
fibreglass eraser pen
all items should be avail from jaycar or dick smith electronics
If you want a capacitor i can supply 47uf 50 volt at 135 degrees temp. PM me.



Remove E101 from car
Carefully cut the top off the module, you can use a dremel
or just scribe around with a stanly knife. take your time as
the pc board is about 5mm below, you don't want to create more damage. lift off top.



You will see the area i marked in red will need to be unsoldered [These pins also have dry joints which
can cause intermitant faults, but will be fixed when reassembled]
then cut off the plastic board locator in pink area
with the red area totally unsoldered [ make sure non of the pins are stuck
to the board then carefully lift out the pcb



Remove capacitor, note the polarity and clean off any residue on pcb where capacitor was
metho on a cotton swab works well.
Now replace electrolytic capacitor 47uf 16 volt, note the polarity of original and put new one in the same way [I used a 105 degree temp as they are common, but have ordered some 135 degree] and solder in, cut off any excess wire from
capacitor
Refit board to module making sure all wire pins come through pcb and then solder making
sure there are no solder blobs joining 2 pins together.
Now clean off any corrosion on the track in the yellow area [ if there is corrosion the green coating on the board will look mottly and flake off easily] i used a fibreglass eraser pen.
If the copper track is corroded right through then then it will need fixed by soldreing across the break.
Plug back into car and test, if all works ok silicon lid back onto module with nuetral cure
silicon.
Hope this helps people
if i've left something out or its unclear, feel free to edit it or ask me
Cheers esky

link to photobucket incase pics dont work
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll28 ... e101cc.jpg
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll28 ... e101ab.jpg
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll28 ... e101bb.jpg

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One step closer to the end...........
...............deceased and cremated

Really good write up. This is going straight to the pool room (FAQ section)

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GT Legacy - AWD turbo shagin wagon
Swift GTi - new boy racer daily
Gen4 JDM Honda Prelude VTiR - FS $6K. pm me. vtec yo!

I might have a bash at that with the old one I took out a few months ago. Then I'll have a spare.
There is a place here in Perth that does them, which is where I got a replacement. Although if that is all that goes wrong with them, I think the price I paid could be a bit much ($176) - but then the price of labour these days is not cheap.
I did get a few quotes on replacements and depending on the part number interpretation the lowest was about that much and they went up to nearly $500.

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AA GSR 1984
Still stock except for slightly larger custom exhaust but the rust advances