Just a quick question on my 86 AC, it has one grey top injector and one black top is this odd? Cold starts are a pain it runs very rough but isnt to bad once it warms up. I fitted 2 grey top injectors which I'm asuming it is ment to have but it runs worse. I'm new to Cordias but should I set my TPS or any other ideas?

Fit both the grey tops, but firstly check your ECU is an unleaded version (MD109992 or this sticker on the side 9992) and your airflow meter has one bypass hole.

Alot of unleaded cordias I have seen are mucked with, guys try to turn them back into leaded models just for the extra power.

Checked the ECU number and it is (MD103657) this is a leaded one is it?

Where are the AFM bypass holes located?

So if someone has mucked with it, will an unleaded AC run right with a leaded ECU and black top injectors and AFM? Or should I just put the unleaded stuff back in?

You have an AB (leaded) ECU in your car...........I would check it has an AB airflow meter and put black top injectors in it.......that way everything should work fine..........unless your running a TC05.

Ok I have checked out all the parts.

It looks like it has an unleaded AFM (one bypass hole) and running a tco5 turbo so I’m going t have to track down a leaded AFM.

Do I need to change to a tc06 turbo?
I thought the turbo wouldn’t cause much dreamers correct me if I’m wrong.

The CFM rate of the TC05 will "upset" an AB AFM............your best bet would be to track down an unleaded ECU and put one more grey injector in the throttlebody........that way it should run sweet.

Will I be better off going to leaded gear for more gigger watt's?

I'm knocking up an intercooler system at the moment and plan on winding up the boost.

So am I better off going the larger injector systerm or will the unleaded ones work fine for around 15psi?

Can any one tell me if it would be worth going to Leaded or just stick with the Unleaded system?

if you take it back to stock less headaches

other than that its up to you like Andrew said, the flow rate of the tc05 is suited to the ac afm, if you change over to leaded you need

ecu
2 black top high flow injectors
aa/ab AFM

and patients working out what ever goes wrong plus you should get a tc06 turbo, witch needs a different dump pipe.

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"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.

Ok I finally got hold of another ECU from another 86 Cordia to my surprise its the same as what I have thus has not fix the problem.

This thing is driving me nuts. The next thing that I'm thinking of changing is the TPS or just keep changing things to fix the problem.

Any other thoughts anyone?????

Was the serial number as I stated earlier in the post?

Sounds like you have another "leaded" ECU.

I have one with the serial number MD103657 like you wanted

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87 Cordia Turbo with a Pulse
3" Exhaust, Front Mount, Bov, Boosted 10psi
SOLD my baby

MD103657 supersedes MD109992 as a part number so it should be ok for an AC.

yep I now have 2x MD103657 ECU's bought one from another 86 Ac.

So what else do I check if it should be fine with that ECU.

Common problems on Cordias: bad air flow sensors, loose injector connectors, faulty coolant temperature sensors or wiring, bad boost sensors or plumbed up incorrectly, bad injectors, hole in distributor diaphragm, tps bad or adjusted poorly, idle switch faulty, e101 faulty, low fuel pressure etc.

I would start by looking at stuff to do with fueling ie. the 1st 5 things on that list.

I would grab an LED and bridge it in the harness (just next to the brake booster) and look for error codes.

If you search "error codes" you will find plenty of info.

I have checked for code's and I'm getting 5 & 6 plus others from memory that come and go its been a while since I have worked on the car. But #5 TPS & #6 ISC seem to be the most consistent, remember its running one grey injector and one black one and the TPS is turned all the way in one direction to get it to run the best with its problem.

I can get it to not show any codes by setting the TPS in its proper position apart from maybe the Oxy sensor code that shows and it runs like crap and has got no power and will barely run at all with 2 grey injectors in it.

Is it worth getting hold of the other ECU (MD109992) even know I have (MD103657) and got another one from another car the same year and model as mine? I have changed the boost sensor cause I had one laying around didn't make a difference and wiring seems good to the injectors.

I'm thinking to chuck on another TPS.

...comment deleted.

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Ok i to must be missing something starting from the top you have a AB ecu in an AC with a AB afm but 1 back and 1 grey injector is this correct?

there is a couple of posts at the beginning to do with the ecu go back and re read them coz it has me a little puzzled if i read it right you need to put 2 black injectors in and the car should run ok with the right tps setting.

_________________
"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.

No he has an AC ecu, AC air flow sensor and 1 black and 1 grey injector and a tc05. When he runs 2 grey injectors, it runs worse.

I would check the injectors. Resistance should be 2-3 ohms. Remove the crossover pipe. Remove coil high tension lead. Have someone crank the engine. Look to see that both injectors have a good spray pattern.

Check the tps. Set it up properly first. Then check that with ignition on and throttle closed, it has around .5 volts and smoothly increases without dropping out to nearly 5 volts with wide open throttle.

Check the coolant temperature sensor. With ignition on and engine cold, voltage across the sensor terminals should be around 3-3.5 volts. At operating temperature, it should be about 0.5 volts.

Check the air flow sensor. Disconnect it with the engine running. It should have a real hiccup and then continue running. If it runs better disconnected, then the air flow sensor is suspect.

Check fuel pressure. It should be around 36psi at idle. If you dont have a gauge, you could try a fuel flow test. Disconnect the fuel line at the throttle body on the return side. Block off the side that goes to the tank. Fit a hose to the return barb and place other end in a bottle or something you can measure how much fuel. Power up fuel pump checker in engine bay (small white connecter near diagnosis terminal if I remember correctly). You should get nearly 2 litres in a minute. Dont do this over a hot engine or near any fire/sparks

I read that you tried another boost sensor. What happens when you disconnect the vacuum line going to it with the engine idling? Normally this will make the engine overfuel and you will get black smoke out the exhaust.

Your oxygen sensor probably is faulty due to the age of the thing (unless it has been replaced at some time) but it is not likely to be causing your problem.