With 200 kw you will change lanes if boost comes on quickly.........personally, that's the way I like to drive them!

The equal length shaft conversion helped heaps, but only until you hit a pothole.........really need an LSD to go with it.

Haha sounds fun.

What do you have to to do the driveshaft thing?
Is it lots of work?

Spose I should get to that power output first haha

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

There is a thread on here but all the pics are gone due to photobucket deleting one of my folders!!!

It looks pretty simple but you will spend "some time" grinding and filing the centre bearing housing down until the shaft turns cleanly without "binding" the diff.........you will need a VR4 intermediate shaft, and a CB lancer CV and axle. (30 spline at 396mm)

Sweet cheers for the info once again. Sounds interesting
See how it goes when it's all tuned and small
Problems fixed.

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Yea haven't been on here in awhile.
Got car Dyno tuned the other week with the ECM link chip n headers dump pipe
560cc injectors bigger airflo meter and the 2.5" throttle
Body elbow, Evo 3 big tdo5 16g

At the 150fwkw mark, any suggestions
To get that up a bit? Or do i have to go 20g and then headers
Cant be used Thought might have boost
Leak but the manifold pressure under boost is holding
16psi fine no leaks by looks. 450nm torque.
So the auto meter boost gauge isn't very
Good as its saying 13-14psi thought so as the needle
Doesn't sit on 0 when car off. Maybe a boost controller
Up the boost a lil?

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Bigger turbo, bigger injectors.......more power

What turbo/injectors would you suggest? I Was thinking 20g, or are aftermarket turbs better?

Think the headers
Wouldn't work with bigger turbo (as designed for the 16g), don't think the headers are
Good enough quality anyway ( didn't gain much with them) . Just pain to change them again lol.

It's running lot smoother
Now though mixtures are a lot better not Riching up too much like it was before
Much nicer to drive. Just needs bit more kw and torque.

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Hey does anyone know the tacho output
On a single board ecu. Had aftermarket
Tacho connected into my ecu loom worked
With the daul board ecu. But some pin outs
Must be diff between the two Ecus

Thanks

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Can't you just wire in the original tacho interface module?

Sorry late reply might give this a try tomorrow

That'd be the out pin of the tacho interface
As far as I know that originally goes to pin
109 of ecu so don't know why I wouldn't be getting
A tach signal now

all i have changed is the ecu
The wiring should be the same except for two
Wires that were swapped over in the loom ecu connectors
from the dual Board ecu to suit the single.

I will Have to look
Up what wires they are but don't think they
Have anything to do with tacho.

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

This is from memory,

The yellow wire from the tacho interface (near the coils) should feed the white/ brown runner at the back of the cluster. This worked perfectly for me an eliminated the stupid tacho dance.

In regards to more power, why did the tuner stop at 16 psi? With 7.8:1 comp you should be near 20psi with the 16g. I would not up the boost unless the ecu has been tuned at that load.

td05-20g's are not that big an upgrade, the tdo6sl2-20g would be a screamer up top, still a small comp wheel though but you will have a wide power band with heaps of area under the curve.

_________________
|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

Oh ok cheers man. Ill give it a try didn't get time today.
Yea when it was working especially decelerating
The tacho would be all over the place. I thought
Maybe needed shielded cable to stop interference or something
Ill give the one you suggested a go.

Basically thought was ruining 13-14psi according
To auto meter boost gauge seems very in accurate
Dyno manifold pressure measurements were 16psi and holding
Well no leaks.

I'm only running wastegate actuator pressure. I do have
A Gfb atomic boost controller from blue cord.
But was only set to 13psi anyway not to sure
If there easy to adjust. Maybe can use that for
Bit more kws/nm for less $$$. A electronic boost controller
Might be better tho

Is 20psi safe in long run for standard internals
Pretty sure I got a decent head gasket tho. Maybe up it
To 18 think I may need new piping and intercooler maybe

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Internals are fine in regards to the power you plan to be making, many have made much more with no issues. The important thing is to ensure the engine does not detonate, as this will quickly damage the piston crown and/or your rod bearings.

My customers 9:1 builds generally hit the limits of what Melbourne pump fuel can provide at 17psi on a 16g turbo. Any more requires a toluene based octane booster. This generally nets close to 20psi. However, the added cost per refill and the inconvenience of having to buy from a petrol station when not at one near home (Generally purchased in 4 to 20l cans) simply is not worth the gains in performance IMO.

A rule of thumb that my tuner goes by is that 3 psi approximately equals one count of Cr. Based on this, your 7.8:1 Cr engine would need ~3 more psi to achieve similar results to the 9:1 builds mentioned above, but at the same time would be happier doing so as the fuel will have more give. Downsides are less torque off boost and more heat with higher boost, hence the popularity on 9:1 pistons during forged rebuilds.

Another note, the 16g becomes inefficient at higher boost levels, gains per psi drop off significantly past 17psi which is directly related to the small size and old school design of the turbo.

If you want to make more power safely, a turbo that can move more air per psi is your best bet. On the cheap, generally means a bigger turbo and with that comes added lag. Money to burn will get you something more exotic, bb cores, billet comp wheels and so on, and will allow a smaller more efficient alternative to the cheap option. At the end of the day both options benefit from more flow per psi and cooler charge temps.

I went the cheaper option, I don't mind some lag but I do mind thousands on a turbo,

_________________
|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

Oh ok cool. Thanks for the info once again.

Is ur tacho interface a J602
Mitsubishi one?

Have 3 wires 2 whites and a red
One red is in one white is in
The other white is out. Actually that one might
Be yellow maybe just faded in colour. Ill try that one
Thanks.

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Hey Marc,
I'm working on Bitza today...........here is a pic of the tacho interface, the white and red wires go to the negative of the coil banks and the yellow wire goes to the original dash (white) wire..........no more "bouncing" tacho needle. If you really wanted you can change the wires over to suit the colour coding.

Awesome. Thanks again for your help.

Will give it ago tomorrow.

It shouldn't cause any probs running three
Tachometers of it?

Sounds stupid I i know but need one for the
Auto meter (only use for the shift light) and a line for
Tech edge wideband has a tacho input for realtime digital
Read out and I assume the original cordia
One is connected to it in the loom

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Hmm connected it up to auto meter
Still no tacho. Original works fine

All power there etc for auto meter I'm guessing
The auto meter is stuffed. Haven't hooked up
The wideband because says the pulses have to be
Below 12v don't have a Cro with me only at work
And I'm on holidays. Don't wanna damage the wideband
Controller wasn't cheap so guess I leave it for now.

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Can you use the tacho "simulated" wire from your ECU to run the autometer gauge?

Is that pin 109? White wire on the smallest connector
With power and gnd etc?

If so that's where originally had it.

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime

Ahhh finally got it think the signal from
The tacho interface output to low
Didn't have Cro to check pulses but used
Multimeter and was only reading 3.5v

And reading online think some autometer tachometer
Need a 12v tacho signal and to use a pull up resistor
From tach signal to 12v starting with 10k went down to
2.2k resistor was closer to 12v still didn't work

Then thought maybe it reads the 0volts so tried
Pull down resistor of 10k ( resistor to ground to tach sig)
Now I think have to do the same for the tech edge wideband
Rpm input but reverse a pull up sig to 12v hopefully

_________________
*81 GH Sigma*
*85 GK GSR Sigma - 2.6L, 4G54, 71.6rwkw, NA pig, TR magna EFI conversion and computer, lumpy crow cam*
*85 AB GSR Cordia - 2.0L, Gen 1 DOHC 4G63, 116.33 fwkw, 13psi ,Stocker TD05H 14B Turbo, Stocker computer, needs work to slow*

Driving a Cordia is not a Crime