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PostPosted: Sat 29 Mar 2008, 4:18 pm 
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TP Magna Front Brake Upgrade/Conversion

The fitment of the Magna front brakes is beneficial to my AB Cordia for 2 reasons
The 1st reason being I will gain larger disc brake rotors
The 2nd being I am able to fit any 4x114.3 wheel without modification to either the wheel or the original disc rotors. The original rotors have 4 bolt heads that protrude and don’t allow for a flush fit

These are the steps I have taken to fit these brakes

1. Gather all the tools and equipment necessary for the task. You will need a wheel brace, 2 scissor jacks and car stands, 10mm, 17mm, 19mm and 32mm sockets/spanners, a ball joint and tie rod separator, large multi grips, pointy nose vice grips, pliers and some WD40. Also required are brake fluid and some clear hose to fit on the brake fluid nipple at the caliper. The hose will need to be long enough to reach from the nipple into a jar on the ground.

2. Ensure you have all the parts necessary for the conversion. You will require the complete front hub assemblies from the TP, TM or TN Magna. This includes the hubs, the rotors and the calipers with brake pads. The brake fluid line is not required, as the Cordia brake line will fit up to the Magna caliper. The rotors I have acquired are in good condition and don’t require machining.

Equipment
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3. Loosen the front wheel nuts. Place jacks under the standard jacking points and raise the vehicle until stands will fit under the chassis rails at the bottom of the firewall. Lower the car onto the stands but leave the jacks in place with the slightest bit of weight on them. You can do one side at a time, but I found it easier to jack both sides off the ground and do them at the same time. Remove the wheels and place under the side off the car for safety. If you can’t remember the last time any of the following components were removed it may be a good time to give everything a spray with WD40 and go for a smoko break.

4. With the wheels off you can remove the split pin from the hub nut and remove the nut. It will be necessary to brace the rotor while removing the nut, this can be done by wedging something between the disc vent and the caliper (pic 4.1)

4.1
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5. Removal of the calipers- Crack the 17mm brake line bolt at the caliper (pic 5.1) It’s easier to do it while the caliper is still fitted. There are two 17mm bolts that hold the calipers in place, remove these and slide the caliper away from the rotor. Remove the brake line from the caliper by turning the caliper not the brake line. Suspend the brake line out of the way and put the old caliper aside. If the fluid hasn’t been changed in a while and you plan to flush the brake line, now may be a good time to drain all the fluid, as it will save on mess later.

5.1
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6. Crack the 17mm tie rod nut (pic 6.1) and undo until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the bolt. Then the 19mm ball joint nut with a spanner. Use the ball joint and tie rod separator to free the tie rod end from its seat (pic 6.1) Once this joint is free it may be necessary to brace the bolt while removing the nut the rest of the way. This can be done with the pointy nose vice grips (pic 6.3) After the tie rod is separated just let it hang down out of the way.

6.1
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6.2
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6.3
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7. Remove the two 17mm bolts that are connecting the hub assembly to the strut. Now you will need to lean the hub forward and pull the CV out of the back. It will be necessary to turn the hub into a full lock position, turn the left wheel into full lock left and pull the CV towards the front of the vehicle. Be careful not to pull the CV shaft out of the gearbox or you will lose oil.

8. With the CV out and resting forward, you can now access the lower ball joint with a socket driver and the separator (pics 8.1 and 8.2) Pop this joint and the hub can now be taken away from the vehicle.

8.1
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8.2
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9. With the old hub removed, the new hub can now be fitted in the reverse order. When refitting the tie rod nut it may be necessary to brace the bolt. This can be done with the multi grips by applying pressure to the tie rod bolt shaft into the seat of the hub arm (pic 9.1) The nut can now be done up without the bolt turning.

9.1
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10. Remember when refitting the new caliper; turn the caliper onto the brake line before fitting the caliper to the hub. It may also be easier to bleed the brakes at this stage rather than with the wheels back on and the vehicle on the ground.

11. Bleeding the brakes- you will require assistance while bleeding the brakes, a committed girlfriend, a mate, neighbor or just some random stranger walking down the street should do the trick. Crack the brake fluid nipple and place the clear hose over the nipple. Now place the hose into a jar/container. The end of the hose will need to sit in some fluid to prevent air from going back up the line. With the hose in place and the nipple just firmly tight, refill the brake fluid canister. Have the extra person slowly pump the brake pedal several times, 5 should be enough. On the fifth pump have them hold the brake pedal down firmly. Now release the pressure by loosening the nipple, it should only take a slight turn, and then tighten it again before repeating the process until there is no air coming out of the line. This is where communication plays a part, there should be a lot of yep, ok, go and now being thrown around. Ensure to keep an eye on the level of the canister, you won’t want it to run dry as more air will get into the line.

12. Once the brakes have been fully bled, you can now tighten the hub nut and fit the split pin, refit the wheels, lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts. If you feel you have confidently succeeded in the conversion the car can now be taken for a slow test drive. Feel for any wobbles or shudders, as the result of something that has been ill fitted. Also, even though it was a straight bolt on conversion, it may also pay to have a wheel alignment done, especially if you are going to be fitting expensive 17 inch wheels, and don’t want your tyres to wear unevenly.

The Finished Product
Image

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PostPosted: Sat 29 Mar 2008, 9:03 pm 
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Nice one.

--> FAQ.

If anyone has comments, updates or additions let me know and I'll unlock it.

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