Lol at front wheel drive wheel spin! That's one thing I'm loving at the moment driving the rex. 7,000rpm, dump the clutch! It wheelspins a bit but moves forward farken fast but it definately doesn't wheelspin to 120kph. Ah yes the joys to look 4ward to if I finish my VR4 cordia

*Requests for someone to put up detailed instructions on how to do this please*

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~8v 4G63 AC GSR
FMIC
2.5" exhaust
K&N air filter
Modified AFM
Re-Graphed dizzy
rear KYB struts
110.6wkw @ 13.3psi

~1999 Honda VFR800

"ox!'s fix it hour"
today's tech, instaling an 8 speed gearbox in your cordia

okies, first, find you vacuum solenoid actuator thing, It's a small black barrely thing near the side of the gearbox on the drivers side. There are 3 bigish vacuum hoses coming out of the side of it and a pair of wires going into the bottom of it. on the very right side of the gearbox there's a solenoid, it's got a rubber boot and two vac lines coming from it, tose two lines attatch to the barrely thing that has 3 lines. what you're looking for is the pair of wires that come off the bottom of that 3 vac lines barrely thing. now, there's a plug on those wires, about 2 inches down them. unplug it. now go for a rdive and see if fifth still work or if it's now the same as forth, if it's the same as forth, you unplugged the right wire. now, go back to that plug, unplug it and measure with the ignition onf the volts on each wire on the non-barrel side of the plug, so, when it's unplugged, measure the power going to the barrel. with the ignition on one side of the plug will have 12V on it, (black wire of multimeter to the negative terminal of the battery). the other side of the plug will have some strange residual voltage of a small number on it. that's the wire you want. tap a wire onto the wire that has 0v on it. run this wire into your cabin, to a switch, and then connect the other side of the wire to earth. put the plugs back together. so, you've got one side with 12v, goes into the barrel, comes out again, and you've put a switch on the earth side, it's an earth switch. noooow, with the car rolling, and the clutch in, switch your switch on. now the solenoid should be on and you should have an overdriven gearbox with two 4th gears that are the equivalen of your original 5th. clutch in, swith off, clutch out and you've got your normal gearbox back. put a light on the switch so you know when it's working, (remember to wire the earth side of the light to the switch, it's an earth switch afterall.) you must make sure the car is rolling and clutch in for the switch to work, otherwise it's like trying to put your car in gear without the clutch, or while still it can be between gears and try to force itself in where theres no spot and possibly damage itself. There's actually a rolling switch that stops the factory fifth from engaging if you aren't rolling, if you can wire your switch in after this it'll eliminate the not rolling engagement issue as it'll stop the switch from working till you're rolling, but I couldn't be stuffed find where it is so I wired it straight in at the plug,

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Gallo 24 all the way

Ok, I understand most of it I think, ill give it a go. Someone said earlier something about swapping two vac lines?

_________________
~8v 4G63 AC GSR
FMIC
2.5" exhaust
K&N air filter
Modified AFM
Re-Graphed dizzy
rear KYB struts
110.6wkw @ 13.3psi

~1999 Honda VFR800

yep instead of the switch you can just switch the bottom two vac lines (the ones that go to the solenoid) on the barrel. can't switch that off easily though, and it makes 4th fifth, and fifth forth, which is kinda weird.

_________________
Gallo 24 all the way

You could probably rig that up using some old emissions switches.

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‘85 AA Cordia
All in bits!
On the road soon, terrorising your local neighborhood!
http://www.cardomain.com/id/samuel_cordia

1980 EX lancer EX2000 replica.

easiest is still just switch between the earth side and earth. still irks me a bit, I tend not to use it., more there for if you're dragging, the longer gearings not so good for fanging, where 3rd was perfect anyway, it's now like forth which is too long, and second is still to short to grip,

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Gallo 24 all the way

Ok noticed that there is the big black barrel near the gearbox and a smallish one just near the brake booster, which one are we talking about here? I was just about to pull off one of the hoses at the top of the big barrel and as I pulled it air gushed out, why would it be under pressure if the engine was not running?

_________________
~8v 4G63 AC GSR
FMIC
2.5" exhaust
K&N air filter
Modified AFM
Re-Graphed dizzy
rear KYB struts
110.6wkw @ 13.3psi

~1999 Honda VFR800

that is the vaccume canister the was air gushing in

I think its a vacuum reservior. Are you sure it wasn't air gushing in? Did it stop after a while?

air is likely to gush in. even when it's off. there's a bifblack cannister that only got two vac line coming out of the top, igonre that, you want the smaller one that's got 3 vac lines and on pair of wires.

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Gallo 24 all the way

Ok so I want the smaller canister that is between the airbox and the brake vaccum, it has 3 lines on it.

_________________
~8v 4G63 AC GSR
FMIC
2.5" exhaust
K&N air filter
Modified AFM
Re-Graphed dizzy
rear KYB struts
110.6wkw @ 13.3psi

~1999 Honda VFR800

think so, 3 lines is the one, I don't have an airbox, so yeah.

_________________
Gallo 24 all the way

I swapped the 2 lines around and man 1st gear is soo cool now, I hit 13psi! That was the real main difference. 1st, 2nd and 3rd were all longer, but heres the weired bit... 4th became 5th and 5th strangely became equal to 3rd?

_________________
~8v 4G63 AC GSR
FMIC
2.5" exhaust
K&N air filter
Modified AFM
Re-Graphed dizzy
rear KYB struts
110.6wkw @ 13.3psi

~1999 Honda VFR800

fifth because 3rd?, that's weird, mine becomes forth.

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Gallo 24 all the way