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PostPosted: Fri 29 Apr 2005, 4:31 pm 
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This is a guide I have put together from experience on (and off) the track on how to launch and get a quick ¼ mile time.

Preparation:
You want your car to be performing at its peak, you also want to be sure that you aren’t going to blow anything up.

Do a thorough service, change oil, oil filter, coolant, air filter, sparkies, leads etc. you know the drill.
Set boost level, ignition timing, deflate your front (driving) tyres to about 20-25psi.

Scrutineering:
Make sure there are no loose items in your car, absolutely NONE! You can have stuff in your glove box though.
Clean up any visible leaks, you must have a coolant over flow bottle, all wheel nuts done up tightly, no loose items in the engine bay etc, its pretty common sense stuff really. They guys at scrutineering are pretty cool and laid back, they arent Nazis, if they turn your car down its going to be for a bloody good reason.

Clothing:
Closed face helmet, long sleeves, long trousers.

Racing:
There is no need to boot it as soon as the light goes green, just sit there until YOU are ready, get your revs perfect, grab the handbrake, get your clutch just before friction point, settle your nerves then go, you will run far better times if your relaxed, focused and not too rushed. And ALWAYS do handbrake starts, they are very effective.

Rev to about 3-3500rpm to launch, redline 1st, 2nd, 5100rpm in 3rd and run 4th all the way, try not to change into 5th if you can help it, it will only slow you down.

Remember, this is just a guide, this is how I race, once you are out there you will find your own comfort zones with launching revs and gear changes etc. It will all come with practice, and if its your first time out there don’t over estimate the times you will be running, you will only disappoint yourself, try to think realistically about it.

Guys, feel free to add any other hints and tips, but please quote facts only, if you haven't raced you don't know what you are talking about. I don't wanna see any "This is how you run 12 sec quarters but I've never done it before meng!"

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PostPosted: Fri 29 Apr 2005, 6:21 pm 
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Scrutineering: There wasn't really any srot of scrutineering all the times I've been to test and tunes. The guys just walk up to your car, grab your details that you've filled out on the entry card, then mark your window with that white marker. Didn't even open the bonnet. But it pays to have a tidy car!

Clothing: Add to the list closed in shoes, no thongs... lol ;)

Afterwards: As soon as you possible can CLEAN OFF THE RACE NUMBER!! Sure you may think you are cool driving around with the drag racing number on your window but trust me, you won't think it's cool in a couple of months time. If you don't wash it off it can become kind of permenant!!

:)

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PostPosted: Fri 29 Apr 2005, 7:32 pm 
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Nice write up Nash, sounds good, yeah some people get pretty nervous when there out there but it is right to relax you ballsakz.

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PostPosted: Fri 29 Apr 2005, 7:34 pm 
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Hey guys in NSW found some possible useful links from the WSID website, i'm sure msot of you guys know it already bust always a good read :D :

http://www.wsid.com.au/default.asp?CatID=172&ParentID=171

http://www.wsid.com.au/default.asp?CatID=177&ParentID=165

I think from memory Mrmits on this forum is a ANDRA worker so i'm sure he'll be able to fill us in on more :D

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PostPosted: Sat 30 Apr 2005, 12:08 am 
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How exactly do these handbrake starts work?

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PostPosted: Sat 30 Apr 2005, 6:22 pm 
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Well they are especially good if your at a set of lights that slopes down hill.
Basically you just grab the handbrake with the buttom in so it doesnt lock and you can hold it as tight as you like. This was you can take your foot off the brake and have it riding the accelerator and have your clutch just before friction. Then when the light turns green you ease the throttle and clutch as you normally would aswell as easing the handbrake off.

Its good for 2 reasons, there is no time taken up by moving your foot off the brake to the accelerator, and you can launch at a higher rev without wheelspin.

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~8v 4G63 AC GSR
FMIC
2.5" exhaust
K&N air filter
Modified AFM
Re-Graphed dizzy
rear KYB struts
110.6wkw @ 13.3psi

~1999 Honda VFR800


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PostPosted: Sat 30 Apr 2005, 7:14 pm 
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sounds pretty good! use it all the time for hill starts, but have to give it a go for off the line! cool cool

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PostPosted: Sat 30 Apr 2005, 10:03 pm 
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Haha, we have flat drag strips here in new zealand, so you can just leave your foot on the accelrator!

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PostPosted: Sun 01 May 2005, 12:30 pm 
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Nice Guide Nash Nice

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PostPosted: Sun 01 May 2005, 1:30 pm 
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Nashstyle wrote:
Its good for 2 reasons, there is no time taken up by moving your foot off the brake to the accelerator, and you can launch at a higher rev without wheelspin.


Adelaide International Raceway has a flat dragstrip (like most proper dragstrips i would've thought!) so would you still recommend using the handbrake at the start at this dragstrip?


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PostPosted: Sun 01 May 2005, 2:02 pm 
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LOL!!! ahahahah! never thought bout that! LOL!!! :P

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PostPosted: Sun 01 May 2005, 3:07 pm 
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Quote:
Its good for 2 reasons, there is no time taken up by moving your foot off the brake to the accelerator, and you can launch at a higher rev without wheelspin.


This is called 'stalling it up.' You hold the handbrake in, rev it up to a couple of grand and let the clutch out til it starts to grab... it's a balancing act between enough handbrake, clutch and throttle. Do it wrong and you'll either jump the line or stall it... do it right and you launch like all buggery.

When you guys are finished with this thread let me know and I'll move it to FAQ's, it's good. I've stickied it until then.

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PostPosted: Sun 01 May 2005, 5:10 pm 
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yeh its good fun in auto's too! :P hehehe


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PostPosted: Sun 01 May 2005, 11:48 pm 
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Astaroth wrote:
Quote:
Its good for 2 reasons, there is no time taken up by moving your foot off the brake to the accelerator, and you can launch at a higher rev without wheelspin.


This is called 'stalling it up.' You hold the handbrake in, rev it up to a couple of grand and let the clutch out til it starts to grab... it's a balancing act between enough handbrake, clutch and throttle. Do it wrong and you'll either jump the line or stall it... do it right and you launch like all buggery.

When you guys are finished with this thread let me know and I'll move it to FAQ's, it's good. I've stickied it until then.



cool, should give it a go sometime. so what sort of rpm should you dial up to? and when you take off, is it simply a case of chucking the handbrake down, then dropping the clutch?? what happens there?


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PostPosted: Mon 02 May 2005, 11:42 am 
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Steve_1 wrote:
Nashstyle wrote:
Its good for 2 reasons, there is no time taken up by moving your foot off the brake to the accelerator, and you can launch at a higher rev without wheelspin.


Adelaide International Raceway has a flat dragstrip (like most proper dragstrips i would've thought!) so would you still recommend using the handbrake at the start at this dragstrip?


Quote:
Haha, we have flat drag strips here in new zealand, so you can just leave your foot on the accelrator!


DUMMAH! Yes we too have flat drag strips but:

Nashstyle wrote:
...Well they are especially good if your at a set of lights that slopes down hill.

_________________
~8v 4G63 AC GSR
FMIC
2.5" exhaust
K&N air filter
Modified AFM
Re-Graphed dizzy
rear KYB struts
110.6wkw @ 13.3psi

~1999 Honda VFR800


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PostPosted: Mon 02 May 2005, 1:03 pm 
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Quote:
cool, should give it a go sometime. so what sort of rpm should you dial up to? and when you take off, is it simply a case of chucking the handbrake down, then dropping the clutch?? what happens there?


I usually rev to about 3k, but it depends on a lot of things. I've got a 5-puck brass button so I need to keep the revs a little higher to make it slip. It's different for every car, just experiment a bit.

When you launch, you do it like normal... plant the throttle and let the clutch out (drop the handbrake first obviously heh). It'll take a bit of practice but if you can get it right your launches will be ten times better. The main thing to watch with a normal organic clutch is that if you start stalling too early and slip it for too long, it'll get really hot and slip like buggery when you let go. Don't get that problem with the 5 pucker :)

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PostPosted: Mon 02 May 2005, 10:18 pm 
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ive never used the hand brake and get 2.0 60ft by reving it to around

5500 slipping the clutch in first till you get momentum up let it out

then smooth change in to second away you go smash the rest of the

gears and your home :lol: ive run a 12.6@115mph on street tyres..

Ill give the handrake thing a go but dont think it will be any quicker but

theres only one way to find out... :)


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PostPosted: Mon 02 May 2005, 11:17 pm 
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farrrrrkkkk!!! thats a sick time!!

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PostPosted: Tue 03 May 2005, 10:05 am 
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Damn thats huge! And w/out the handbrake that must have taken alot of practice. But man you must fry your clutches hard. What Cordia do you have? It can't be a 1.8.

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~8v 4G63 AC GSR
FMIC
2.5" exhaust
K&N air filter
Modified AFM
Re-Graphed dizzy
rear KYB struts
110.6wkw @ 13.3psi

~1999 Honda VFR800


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PostPosted: Tue 03 May 2005, 10:46 pm 
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Nashstyle wrote:
Damn thats huge! And w/out the handbrake that must have taken alot of practice. But man you must fry your clutches hard. What Cordia do you have? It can't be a 1.8.


The clutch ive got in there now has done around 75-100 passes still magic.

I think no handbrake high rev take off is the way with slipping the clutch and not flooring the throttle finding the zone between throttle and clutch its best way that ive found... each to there own...

no 1.8 here - VR4 :)


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