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PostPosted: Sat 01 Apr 2006, 11:55 am 
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Edit: For some reason imageshack decided not to resize my pictures, even though the thumbnails say 800x600 they're actually 2048 x 1600. Sorry about that.

I was lucky enough to have the engine out while I did this which made it a lot easier than it would of been with the engine in. You'll probably find it easiest to do it from underneath the car with the engine in.

I used Nolathane bushings, the part number is 42360. You can also get them from Pedders, their part number is EP3360.

Take off the old crappy bushings.
Image
Take off the 14mm nut on each side then remove the top bushing, seperate it from the two metal washers and set them aside. Push down on the swaybar until the thread is clear of the bracket then rotate the sway bar links slightly away from the bracket. Remove the lower bushing, and seperate the metal washer again, theres only one for the bottom. Leave the metal spacer tube on the bottom.
Now put the metal washers on your new bushings and you should have something that looks like this.
Image
Two old bushings, the metal tube which is still on the swaybar link, the lower new bushing with the metal washer on the bottom and the upper new bushing with two metal washers (make sure you don't switch the top and bottom ones)

Now slide on the bottom bushings,
Image
put the sway bar link back into the bracket, slide on the top bushing, then tighten the 14mm nut until the top metal washer stops turning, then give it an extra 2/3 of a turn.
Image

That's all there is to it. It took me about 10 minutes to do, with the engine in it'll shouldn't take too much longer.


There are several more bushings that you can replace. There are four D-link bushings, two below the sway bar links and two where the sway bar connects to the radius rod, two (or four?) large bushings where the radius rod connects to the chassis and two bushings for the control arm to chassis mount which need a press to fit (and supposedly make the biggest difference). I don't have any of these bushings so maybe someone else could write a faq for installing them.

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Last edited by AB on Thu 13 Apr 2006, 8:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat 01 Apr 2006, 12:07 pm 
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suspension should be tightened when the load of the car is on it.

then re-checked after 500k's


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PostPosted: Sat 01 Apr 2006, 2:30 pm 
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good post.
Urethane bushes dont require 'squashing' like rubber does.
If its squashed like shown in the pic, then you tighten it too far.

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