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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 22 Sep 2015, 09:44 
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Once i unbolt the front engine mount i support the engine with a piece of wood on the sump bolts held up with a jack. It's pretty easy to line up the crank bolt with the chassis hole from there. It's just impossible to get a socket through that chassis hole and there is not enough clearance between the chassis and harmonic balancer to get a socket through either. It's perfect that the center of the crank bolt is the perfect size for a socket wrench head.

I got the head back from the machinist. Needed to replace all 16 valve guides as all the intake ones were cracked, some in more than one place, and at least 2 exhaust guides were cracked. When i took the valves out of the head, 3 of the valve springs on the intake side were missing their seats. Thank for that previous owner! I've run it past a few people and i get mixed opinions but to me it makes sense that if 3 springs are missing their seats, considering they were the first three from the timing belt side, then the valve train geometry would be out possibly changing the angle that the valves move through the guides. And then causing them to crack over time. I dunno, some people agree others have said it wouldn't have made any difference.

I went with an OEM composite gasket (discontinued item for this engine, mitsubishi only had 1 in stock) and put in some arp studs. After all the reading i had done i wasn't happy with putting a mls gasket on the surface of the block. Time and money to take the block out of the car wasn't worth it.

The other thing was this head has been done a few times i think as the machinist needed to grind 30 thou off the bottom of each of the lifters in order to get the correct clearances. Does anyone know how thick the bottom of those things are?

So there we go. I'll put up some pics soon. Just waiting for a new silicone joiner to turn up and then i'll see if she starts. I think i just spent more on this job than what i could possibly sell the car for and i did most of the work myself.


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 22 Sep 2015, 14:14 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
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Hey Simon,
With your valves I would be more concerned about spring tension on the valve collets therefore initial seat pressure, and not too mention the bottom of the spring grinding into the bare aluminum without the retainer!!!!

Can't see why the lifters were ground as the sit cleanly in the head with no load on the bottom (they don't run on the cam) the oil feeds from the side of the lifter to the top to gain lash on the rocker arm.

Why not go with a MLS Gasket?........I used a cometic on mine.

Congratulations that you have done the job yourself. :D


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 22 Sep 2015, 19:22 
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Andrew did you have your block milled before you put on your cometic?


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 22 Sep 2015, 19:29 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
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Yep............totally decked.


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 23 Sep 2015, 09:43 
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Yeah that's why i wasn't confident putting a cometic on. I wet sanded it for quite a while with a square metal block but the finish is far from what a good milling machine would do.

Bitza wrote:
Can't see why the lifters were ground as the sit cleanly in the head with no load on the bottom (they don't run on the cam) the oil feeds from the side of the lifter to the top to gain lash on the rocker arm.


Yeah this now has me worried. Is there any risk in damaging anything you reckon? I was going to turn it over today.


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 23 Sep 2015, 19:28 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
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30 thou is approx 0.7 - 0.8mm, the lifter should pump that up, but if it doesn't have the preload the drive train will "rattle", if you run the engine it won't hurt it.

To be honest with you lifters don't need machining, the guy should have known that........if it were me I would replace them.

If you do replace them use the updated 3mm oil hole version, not the 1mm to eliminate tappet "tick".

Let us know how you get on.


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 24 Sep 2015, 00:38 
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Started her up and is running well. Got the usual coolant dribble out of the turbo lines, put a little bit more on the bolts and fixed that. The valvetrain does seem a little noisier now. They already were 3g lifters in there. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow and see if it quietens down with a bit of load on the engine. If not i will replace them. I'm sure i've read of a method to take them out without removing the camshafts.

Whats your opinion on re-tensioning arp studs? They are at 90 ft-lbs. Do you think it's required with a composite hg?


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 24 Sep 2015, 08:26 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
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I think 90 ft-lbs is enough, that's approx. 120 NM, just a little over factory torque..........won't hurt the gasket.


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2015, 00:15 
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I took the valve cover off after warming the engine up twice and retorqued the arps while the engine was still warm. Glad i did because i got some turn on about 7 nuts with 80 ft-lbs. Got them all to 90 and then went around about 3 more times to make sure. I will be doing them again after a couple of hundred k's.

Apart from that car runs great. I honestly don't think the lifters will be an issue. It might be a little noisier but it's not something that stands out now that the car has been driven. Will have to decide whether to replace them or not as it may be a waste of time and money. Car comes on boost nicely and getting wheelspin in 2nd way too easily lol.

Can i just ask you Andrew, are the main timing belt crank pulley, harmonic balancer and oil filter housing the same between the SOHC 4G63 and the DOHC 4g63? Are any of them compatible with the 4G62?

Cheers Andrew for your responses. I'm so glad you check in here as often as i do. It's good to have a reliable source of info even though this forum is a ghost town most of the time. So thanks mate, it's much appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2015, 00:55 
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Cracked guides
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Head serviced
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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2015, 00:59 
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Best i could get the block
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headgasket on
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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2015, 01:14 
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Head on, turbo on, timing set
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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2015, 01:20 
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New turbo water hose cost me $175 and i kinked the bastard trying to get it on before i said stuff it and started to put a bend at the neck of the connection. Has clearance and is not leaking :D When i put a rebuild kit through the turbo i'll get it shortened.
Image

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Last edited by 4cylturb on 26 Sep 2015, 01:24, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2015, 01:22 
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Up and running. This is what it sounds like at first start up. Sounds quieter now i've gone for a run in it.Will post up another vid to compare.

http://vid1214.photobucket.com/albums/c ... agn1ya.mp4


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2015, 18:19 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
Immaculate Stock 86 AC GSR
Well done Simon,
The 4g63 SOHC stuff is compatible with the 62......the DOHC timing stuff is not, but you can use the oil filter housing on both models, have used a 62 oil housing on Grants VR4.........as for your oil feed line, it's designed to go behind the turbo not in front.

The engine has a bit more "tick" in the video........personally I would not be happy with that........mine runs dead quiet.

Great work.


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2015, 23:49 
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Thanks mate. Yeah the oil feed line came with the car like that. I might look into shortening it as it would look much neater sitting the other way around.

I'll take a video of the engine noise tomorrow after i take it out on the highway for a proper run.


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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 29 Sep 2015, 19:32 
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Maybe the lifters haven't primed up all the way? Unsure how long engine was running prior to that recorded video. Did they tick before the head rebuild, if not, they haven't primed yet.

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 Post subject: Re: Repairs
PostPosted: 30 Sep 2015, 22:43 
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TheChosen1 wrote:
Maybe the lifters haven't primed up all the way? Unsure how long engine was running prior to that recorded video. Did they tick before the head rebuild, if not, they haven't primed yet.


Only about 10 minutes. Your right though. Here is what it sounds like after about 200k's of driving.

http://vid1214.photobucket.com/albums/c ... eoducc.mp4


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: 30 Sep 2016, 09:52 
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Since the cordia is now my 2nd car, i decided to do a few things to her i've been wanting to do for a while.

Always wondered what it would look like with black wheels. I didn't want to spend the money on powdercoating and i've always wanted to try plasti-dip, so i gave that a go.

Sine autobarn is phasing out "plast-dip", i tried their replacement product which is a bit cheaper and worked the same.....i presume. I've never used the actual plasti-dip brand.

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Didn't hide all the gutter rash (all caused by previous owner of the wheels....what can you expect for $25 a wheel). Was piss easy to do, only used 2 cans for 5 coats per wheel. At $20 a can it's a pretty cheap way to go.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: 30 Sep 2016, 09:58 
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I peeled the center caps to see what it would look like but i didn't like it. I had enough in a tin to redo them so they're now black again.

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