Once i unbolt the front engine mount i support the engine with a piece of wood on the sump bolts held up with a jack. It's pretty easy to line up the crank bolt with the chassis hole from there. It's just impossible to get a socket through that chassis hole and there is not enough clearance between the chassis and harmonic balancer to get a socket through either. It's perfect that the center of the crank bolt is the perfect size for a socket wrench head.
I got the head back from the machinist. Needed to replace all 16 valve guides as all the intake ones were cracked, some in more than one place, and at least 2 exhaust guides were cracked. When i took the valves out of the head, 3 of the valve springs on the intake side were missing their seats. Thank for that previous owner! I've run it past a few people and i get mixed opinions but to me it makes sense that if 3 springs are missing their seats, considering they were the first three from the timing belt side, then the valve train geometry would be out possibly changing the angle that the valves move through the guides. And then causing them to crack over time. I dunno, some people agree others have said it wouldn't have made any difference.
I went with an OEM composite gasket (discontinued item for this engine, mitsubishi only had 1 in stock) and put in some arp studs. After all the reading i had done i wasn't happy with putting a mls gasket on the surface of the block. Time and money to take the block out of the car wasn't worth it.
The other thing was this head has been done a few times i think as the machinist needed to grind 30 thou off the bottom of each of the lifters in order to get the correct clearances. Does anyone know how thick the bottom of those things are?
So there we go. I'll put up some pics soon. Just waiting for a new silicone joiner to turn up and then i'll see if she starts. I think i just spent more on this job than what i could possibly sell the car for and i did most of the work myself.
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