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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Fri 30 Sep 2016, 12:38 pm 
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1800 CORDIA
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Your car: UFO
My builds have all had a lifter tick on the first start, It passes shortly after.

Great work dude, car is coming along great.

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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Thu 13 Oct 2016, 11:07 pm 
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Here's my hide the pod box. Less then $30 worth of materials. Took me quite a while to do, getting it all measured up and i was short on time. When i get a chance i will redo it and make it look a bit nicer and paint it black. Will have to do for now though. At least the cops can't fine me again for an exposed pod.

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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Mon 17 Oct 2016, 1:07 pm 
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1800 CORDIA
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Location: Karingal , Frankston Vic
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this is a great build , proper DIY too

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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Thu 27 Oct 2016, 1:44 am 
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Can anybody tell me if the alternator power wire on the factory loom is a single wire straight to the battery, or does it branch off at some point and connect to something else? I'm trying to earth my car a little better and so i'm going to run a ground from the battery to the alternator. While i'm there i thought i would disconnect the factory loom power and just run a 4 gauge straight to the battery. Just wondering if this would be ok? Or is there something else that connects to alt. power wire?


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Thu 27 Oct 2016, 7:50 pm 
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Location: Adelaide South Australia
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
Immaculate Stock 86 AC GSR
No, the alternator wire runs to the distribution block on the drivers side, from there it runs through the ignition switch fusible link back to the battery..........if you run a wire from the back straight to the battery you will bypass the block..............in short, if you need to remove the positive lead with the engine running it will keep running...........found this out when I had an ECU fault!

In saying so I can't see a problem with it..........just make sure you keep the factory wire in place.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Thu 27 Oct 2016, 8:40 pm 
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Your car: 1984 AB cordia turbo
good job mate.
if it was my car i would remove door handles, locks, molds etc
pretty much strip it down makes it easy to buff as well no oversprays.
i see your using star gun .
i only use star guns for primer or (GMH black) black paint used for underbody of car or guide coat for
primer.
i find star gun loads the material on even if you adjust the needle for less material.
other words you will get a heavy peel look and lots of buffing will be needed.
but it gets job done ;)
some of you probably disagree im ok with anyone opinion.
all the best


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Thu 27 Oct 2016, 11:49 pm 
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Bitza wrote:
No, the alternator wire runs to the distribution block on the drivers side, from there it runs through the ignition switch fusible link back to the battery..........if you run a wire from the back straight to the battery you will bypass the block..............in short, if you need to remove the positive lead with the engine running it will keep running...........found this out when I had an ECU fault!

In saying so I can't see a problem with it..........just make sure you keep the factory wire in place.


Cheers mate. So if i just add a 4 gauge power wire from alt (+) to battery (+), and leave the factory wire where it is, it should be sweet?

fernandothecarguy wrote:
good job mate.
if it was my car i would remove door handles, locks, molds etc
pretty much strip it down makes it easy to buff as well no oversprays.
i see your using star gun .
i only use star guns for primer or (GMH black) black paint used for underbody of car or guide coat for
primer.
i find star gun loads the material on even if you adjust the needle for less material.
other words you will get a heavy peel look and lots of buffing will be needed.
but it gets job done ;)
some of you probably disagree im ok with anyone opinion.
all the best


Your right it did need a lot of buffing. I think i could get it looking better with a bit more too. I did it well over a year ago now though. Thought about removing all the little things like door handles but i only had under a week to do it and just got it done. Was my only car back then. I would have liked to have had a better gun to spray with but wasn't really worth the expenditure. Like you said though, got the job done. But definitely could have been done better.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Sat 29 Oct 2016, 11:32 pm 
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I'm trying to improve the electrics a bit, without re-wiring the whole thing, which i would love to do if i had the time. So to improve the earthing i ran a 4 gauge wire directly from the battery to a distribution block i screwed to the fuse box. Then it went like this,

______----> chassis rear__________________----> Alternator housing
Battery ------------------------> Distribution box ----> engine block ----> chassis passenger side
_______________________________________----> Throttle body ----> chassis firewall
_______________________________________----> Chassis drivers side

Could be a bit of overkill. The starter (reduction drive) now sounds like a machine gun, headlights are definitely brighter and the thermo fans don't dim the dash lights as much as they used to when they kicked in. The alternator still isn't charging as high as i'd like at 14.06v. And it sounds like the bosch fuel pump is still fluctuating like it has for a while now. I don't get a constant whirring at idle, it keeps changing tones. I'd like to re-wire the fuel pump so the relay power comes directly off the battery but before i do that i'm going to earth the fuel pump to the chassis properly and see if that makes a difference. Here 's few pics. I ran out of eye terminals big enough for the throttlebody bolt so i used an old strap going to the firewall which will be changed once i get to jaycar.

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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Sun 30 Oct 2016, 12:26 am 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
Immaculate Stock 86 AC GSR
OK, if the battery is fully charged it won't like the extra voltage, this is the job of the regulator in the alternator........so you may have a fully charged battery with less amperage..........when the battery needs amps it will take it.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Sun 30 Oct 2016, 10:06 pm 
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Bitza wrote:
OK, if the battery is fully charged it won't like the extra voltage, this is the job of the regulator in the alternator........so you may have a fully charged battery with less amperage..........when the battery needs amps it will take it.


True. I've never had a problem with the battery and it's been in there for over 3 years. So yeah, not going to worry about that. It's just the fuel pump i want to sort out now.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Tue 01 Nov 2016, 11:09 am 
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Was checking the fuel pump voltage and noticed this white plug is getting bloody hot while the car is running. The wires around it don't seem to be heating up it's just this plug for the fuel pump wiring. Could this be caused by poor connections within the plug?

Image

Also does anyone know what this TDK box is that the fuel pump power and ground run through? If i re-wire the fuel pump can i bypass it?

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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Thu 03 Nov 2016, 11:12 pm 
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Does anyone know what that TDK relay looking thing is/does?


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Fri 04 Nov 2016, 11:47 am 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
Immaculate Stock 86 AC GSR
It's a noise suppressor, just bypass it.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Fri 04 Nov 2016, 3:10 pm 
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Cheers Andrew, i had a feeling it was something useless.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Sat 05 Nov 2016, 8:19 pm 
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Your car: UFO
With the 044, it is good practice to rewire with a relay as the factory wires are undersized for the new pump.
Also, as Andrew mentioned, bypass the TDK BS.

As for the Earth/Power wires, all my cars run 4ga from:

Batt (-) to Chassis
Batt (-) to Block or Head
Batt (-) to Alt
Batt (+) to Alt

The above with a Yellow top optima and you are laughing, no more dimming lights, cold start issue's, battery charging issues, nothing. I highly recommend it!

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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Sun 06 Nov 2016, 10:09 pm 
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TRQ-STR wrote:
With the 044, it is good practice to rewire with a relay as the factory wires are undersized for the new pump.
Also, as Andrew mentioned, bypass the TDK BS.

As for the Earth/Power wires, all my cars run 4ga from:

Batt (-) to Chassis
Batt (-) to Block or Head
Batt (-) to Alt
Batt (+) to Alt

The above with a Yellow top optima and you are laughing, no more dimming lights, cold start issue's, battery charging issues, nothing. I highly recommend it!


Cheers mate. I already have an optima yellowtop in the boot. Great battery. The only thing i haven't done that you have is run a 4ga from alt. to batt (+). After i added all these earths the battery is now charging at a rock solid 14.4v with no fluctuations. Car starts like a machine gun. I also added an extra 8ga earth wire from fuel pump to chassis which has increased the voltage the pump is seeing from 12.06v to 12.2-3v. With headlights and thermo fans on, it now sees 11.9v instead of 11.6v. Only problem is it is now much louder.

The previous owner wired in a microtech mt8 and added a relay for the fuel pump. So all that wiring is done but it seems he just re-used existing wires for the pump power source. I'm planning on redoing the wiring from the pump to the white connector in the boot and see how that goes, as that white connector gets extremely hot and so does the wiring back to the pump. The wiring going to the engine bay doesn't feel like it's heating up anywhere near as much. Now that the pump is seeing increased voltage i'm worried something will eventually melt, especially now summer is coming. Worse case scenario is i split the loom from pump to relay and re-wire the whole lot...but i really don't want to do that.

Would 8ga wire be overkill for the pump wiring?


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Tue 08 Nov 2016, 11:44 pm 
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So i re-wired my fuel pump. Pump power wire at relay is seeing 13.9v and the pump, with a full tank of fuel, has now finally stfu! Car drives beautifully. My only problem is the idle has turned to shit. It used to sit around 820rpm. Now it sits at 620-680rpm, consistently, at temp. with or without headlights, thermo fans etc. on. It's giving me the shits.

I can't imagine the problem being fuel related, as it is known that increasing pump voltage can increase fuel pressure, but can't see how an increase in pressure would drop idle. I'm also not sure if the isc is active. I have no cold start so it most likely isn't. I feather the throttle for a minute or so when cold. Before i did all this re-wiring/earthing i would only have to stay on it for 30secs tops. Car also has a SD tune (mafless).

I'm thinking of making an adjustment to the biss screw to increase the idle slightly. Anyone see a problem with me doing this? Trying to avoid getting it re-tuned as it drives fine with good power.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Wed 09 Nov 2016, 8:12 am 
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Joined: Sat 10 Jun 2006, 12:35 am
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
Immaculate Stock 86 AC GSR
Sounds like your alternator now has more "drag" on the pulley due to increased voltages, I would just turn the bypass screw to up the idle, won't upset anything.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Wed 09 Nov 2016, 10:37 pm 
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Idle is all good again. Turned the biss screw nearly a full turn counterclockwise and it's purring again at 880rpm. Thanks Andrew.


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 Post subject: Re: VR4 cordia work
PostPosted: Sat 26 Nov 2016, 3:01 pm 
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Finished off the pump rewire this morning. Was using a fused connection with 10g wiring which worked fine but i wanted to make it all 8g. My mini anl fuse holder turned up the other day. Came with a 60amp fuse which i will use for now until the 30amp fuses turn up. Will probably shorten the earth wires eventually and i need to buy a better plug for the sender gauge earth. But overall the pump is now constant with no fluctuations.

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And the damn radiator leak. It's not a bad leak but i am losing coolant from the overflow reservoir. Time for a recore.

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