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PostPosted: 19 Jun 2008, 14:15 
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Hi guys,

with some time off from work after getting my left index finger jammed in a eyelet machine and requiring surgery, i thought it was a good time to give you some updates on my recent purchase.

This car was purchased for $500 and was sold to me "as is" and requiring a new head gasket... After looking further into the car with CordiaTurbo aka Terrance, he ran a compression test in which we received 120-125psi on all 4 cylinders and some new vacuum lines and the car was in business. It looks like the previous owner had stuffed around with the vacuum lines causing it not to start...

After getting the car to run, we decided to change the oil and oil filter. BEWARE, dont by cheap oil, even if its just to run it through the engine for 100kms or so... the oil was purchased from a repuitable auto store, however it was their home brand oil and very cheap.. $16 for 5 liters.

As soon as the oil change had been completed, we noticed that oil had leaked through the seals in the turbo and was alot thinner than the weight listed on the bottle, it also destroyed the original turbo and the replacement..

After draining the original oil and replacing it with Penzoil 25w60, we noticied that oil had stopped leaking.. apart from through the damaged turbo, replaced the plugs and car now starts... with the addition of blowing smoke - due to damaged seals on the turbo.

THE SAGA CONTINUES.

Whats next:

Replace damaged turbo with second hand TC06
Set TPS
Connect boost gauge
Road worthy

Sorry to babel, had some spare time and nothing else to so.

Cheers,

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PostPosted: 20 Jun 2008, 18:38 
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This car was purchased for $500 and was sold to me "as is" and requiring a new head gasket... After looking further into the car with CordiaTurbo aka Terrance, he ran a compression test in which we received 120-125psi on all 4 cylinders and some new vacuum lines and the car was in business. It looks like the previous owner had stuffed around with the vacuum lines causing it not to start...

do you have any pics of the car? :roll:
do you know that if you put vacuum lines in the wrong place
it will make your car smoke alot . :mrgreen:
it will still start and run!
speclally the lines of the boost sensor :lol:
i have never heard of cheap thinner oil to Damage the engine or turbo.
How ever I know the fact that if the turbo seals are stuffed
Or engine rings are stuffed that it will blow smoke no matter how thick the oil is :D
thinner=lots smoke , thickers =less smoke but still smokes
is the car registed?
it sounds like a project!

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PostPosted: 20 Jun 2008, 20:51 
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will post some pics up when i can. Incorrect vacuum lines would make it smoke but not blow excessive smoke.. all vacuum lines have been replaced and correctly installed as per the work shop manual.

We continued to work on the car tonight and couldnt fix the problem. The head has been removed and every thing looks to be in order... we did notice a very thick copper head gasket and looking at how clean the engine, pistons and bores are, we believe the engine has been rebuilt...

next on the to do list:

New valve stem seals
remove and degrease both manifolds

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PostPosted: 21 Jun 2008, 22:09 
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Your car: MY car? hmmm a black hunk of metal that moves once every year
Well basicly after the oil change, oil was pissing out of the turbo ;\ and the smoke was something james bond would be proud of,

put a 2nd turbo on same thing 2nd turbo was a good turbo im fairly sure.

Considering how much oil had been spat into the manifold we whipped the head off *30 minutes or so * then yeh gonna clean it slap another turbo on it replace the valves stem seals and make sure theres no oil any were

btw the oil that was in the engine was like water almost the bottle said 25 50 so dunno what went wrong there, got some 20 60 Pennzoil and the smoke died down a fare bit and the turbo stopped leaking as much but still oil every were
and smoke in the inlet manifold oil all through the exhaust it was rather messy n' fked!

Thats why we have opted to clean every thing and just cover all bases engine has hypertech pistons STD size the bores look like they have had a huge amount taken off them and then re sleeved and it had full copper head gasket also to note 2 head bolts weren't very tight at all so maybe it didn't get a 2nd torque down

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PostPosted: 22 Jun 2008, 00:42 
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it sound like the car you bought is a mess.

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PostPosted: 22 Jun 2008, 12:56 
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i wouldnt call it a mess, more a project car.

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PostPosted: 22 Jun 2008, 13:48 
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renovators delight ;)

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PostPosted: 22 Jun 2008, 15:55 
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still waiting for pics of your car .
whats the body and interior like?
does it have any rust?
I'm still deciding if I'm going to waist my time with installing vr4!
As you know I haven't put it up for sale yet.
But if I go ahead with it I can sale you my 1.8 only got 170,000 km
And no smoke with thinne oil 140 to 145 PSI compression
This motor never been trashed as far as I know

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PostPosted: 23 Jun 2008, 12:36 
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Nathan1,

Here is a photo of the car, there are 2 defects within the body, 1 is the rear right hand quarter panel and the 2nd is on the top of the roof - small rust bubble. The interior is near immaculate.

I also received my front mount intercooler today, a nissan u13 bluebird cooler - calsonic edition. Looks like it will do just the right job..


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PostPosted: 23 Jun 2008, 18:19 
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well she looks good. :)
hard to belive theres rust on the roof :shock:
i have seen it every where else on cordias.
have you tried to remove the front guards
i have seen some shocking cordias.
to me a project is restoring the whole car.
not just the motor and you would start by removing all moulds panels
interior ect and start with a bear shell.
thats what i did to my car!
how big is your cooler?
what that cost you,intercoolers this days are very cheap.
its the pipe work that will shock you.

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PostPosted: 23 Jun 2008, 23:11 
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the cooler is about 350mm wide and its not over kill... racetec in melbourne is doing the piping... about $600 fitted with proper clamps and hoses. will get this done once i have a multi point manifold

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2008, 12:11 
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copper headgasket..... PICSORBAN!!!

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2008, 15:28 
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I wouldnt use a copper head gasket, they can be very hard to seal properly sometimes. Just use a normal Mitsubishi or ACL one, or if you really must have a tough head gasket, use a MLS to suit a dohc 4g63 like a Cometic.

With the oil problem, make sure the turbo drain isn't blocked or restricted in any way.


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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2008, 18:03 
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multipoint huum!
Do you know the cost involved in multipoint?
Do you know the cost involved in VR4?
Money wise not much difference but performance wise BIG difference.
Theres member in this forum called wizardofoz his got multipoint for sale
with everything you need for your car that's ECU,LOOM.MULTIPOINT ECT....
You might ask him why his gone VR4! ;)

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2008, 23:11 
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Nathan1,
thanks for your help, i do know the difference in price between VR4 and multipoint.. let me tell you, multipoint is alot cheaper and is alot easier to engineer... Trying to engineer a VR4 in a cordia can be difficult...

Steve:
ill have photos up for you by tomorrow. :D

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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 17:35 
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Trying to engineer a VR4 in a cordia can be difficult...


Depends where you are, and who you know. SA is known for being a bitch but I thought Vic wasn't too bad?

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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 17:53 
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i dunno, cant really be bothered with stuffing around with engineering certificates

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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 18:15 
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thats right! :lol:
Depends where you are, and who you know. :mrgreen:
but anyway it cost around 300 to 700 bucks for a certificate.
it depends who you know.
Let me think huum VR4 +engine mount+loom ECU+certificate=$2300
That's what mine will cost me.
Multipoint you can get one for 1400 ready to go that's cheap.
I have heard from members in this forum that they have spent around $4000
But it was done professionally cause if you do it your self it might not get what you want out of it.
I'm not knocking you back on your work .
But I have heard that if you don't get it right, you will only get 5 to 10kw more but if you do it right 30 to 40kw so you can reach around 145 to 150kw at the front wheels not bad!
Compare to a VR4 208kw stock :lol:

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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 20:07 
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Your car: MY car? hmmm a black hunk of metal that moves once every year
What can you do wrong ? accept tunning ?

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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2008, 20:26 
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for what i was told you can use magna,lancer,galant multipoint they all fit.
but you dont want to go to big or small in size

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