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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 00:03 
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Hi All,

I have $$$ to spend over a reasonable amount of time (ie not all at once!)to bring my AB up to scratch. At the moment it is bog standard, apart from a set of 15" Magna Elite wheels.

The idea is get good, reliable power gains as well as having it handle much better and stop a bit harder. The interior is getting a bit worn and would do well from a tart up as well, with the possibility of a lick of paint further down the track.

As such, I'd be grateful for some detailed suggestions/recommendations on the following, as well as prices if you have done the same thing to your ride recently.

Suspension
Shocks, struts, springs & maybe bars as well. Brands to look for and prices would be great.

Exhaust
Probably 2.5" mandrel as I don't plan to go stupid with the engine to warrant anything bigger.
Where to get it done? I've had stuff done by Performance Exhaust in Ringwood (Vic) on other cars in the past, are they still the place to go?

Intercooler
I have a/c so can I keep it intact? I don't plan on huge boost, maybe 10psi, but would like something that can handle a bit more than that just in case. Is there a particular unit that is good to use? What sort of $$ should I expect to pay for a 'cooler and then for piping?

Brakes
Bigger discs up front is something I want to do pretty early in the piece. I know AC discs are a dead easy swap but I've read here that some Magna ones and even VR4 discs are doable. Are the Magna discs a good move? I'd think they are readily available for reasonable $$ which is why I'm thinking of going with them.
I also saw that rear discs from Magna wagons are a good swap too - I might do that later on as well.

MPI
I'm thinking L300/Galant/Sonata manifold but don't know a suitable throttle body to mate up to it or what injectors are good. Is a CAS soemthing to look at as well or is the standard dizzy OK? I read on a thread in the classifieds that someone had a setup with a welded standard dizzy that was hooked up to act like a CAS - any ideas on that?
What would be a good ECU to use with this sort of setup?
This is something I'd consider doing a bit further down the track, but is it worth the effort, time and expense? Or are there other ways of getting reliable 'future proof' performance from the 1.8l engine?

Interior
The only rice I like is the stuff from a Chinese restaurant, so no huge gauges, stickers, fluffy dice etc. I'd be looking at a subtle retrim of the front and rear seats, maybe door trims and center console and definitely new carpet. Any good places to get this done in the Croydon/Ringwood area?

The exterior can wait a while - the car is pretty straight and has no rust that I've been able to find. The silver paint is starting to get a little tired but oddly enough only on the roof, so I may look at getting a good detail done and just get the roof resprayed, but not right away.

I know I've listed a lot of stuff, but I've been stewing over this for ages (one or two of you may remember me from early Melbourne meets and know its been a LONG time) and I still don't quite know where to start.

If anyone can recommend a good workshop(again in the Croydon area) that I can go and yap to about some of this then I'd be very appreciative. The last mechanic I had charged like buggery and did nothing for the cause but to empty my pockets. So anyone that knows Cordias and how to make effective mods to them would be a huge bonus.

Cheers all - expect to hear from me a bit as I've always got something to say![/b]

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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 09:41 
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Do a search, every one of your questions has already been asked and answered.

Astaroth.

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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 12:30 
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Thanks for the reply Astaroth.

I agree that there are answers to be found elsewhere in the forum, but after scouring most threads I was not able to find answers specific enough for me to be able to make any informed decisions! That's why I posted the message as I did.

Having said that I'll search again to see if there are any that I missed.

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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 12:35 
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A good cut and polish does wonders for your paint my friend.

You can retrim your doors yourselfm but you will need to get somone to do the seats, cos they are tircky.

I'll write more about doing doors etc later, ive gotta go to a union meeting now.

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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 19:44 
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i think the first reply was a rather tightass effort. So id suggest speaking to evoR in Croydon. a few of the guys from here get their work done by these guys, and speak very highly of them.

Magna discs are the exact same disc as the ACGSR..
10psi,... the ever popular rx7 cooler would be no problems.
But as it has been pointed out, most of this stuff has been covered.
Chris yeah? Its Steve.. i remember you from the first CMs.

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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 20:08 
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Ok ill start on some real info for you...hehe

Suspention, depends what your after, new pedders/kmac/munro etc shocks would be fine with some lowered springs if that's your thing, whiteline do swaybars etc, kmac also do bars etc.. OR you can get height and internal valve adjustable coilovers for the front s of cordias, for about 1300 fitted, and rear adjustable shocks are available also for about 650...but like i said depends on $$ and what you want in the end...

Exhaust, for moderate mods that system sounds fine, any exhaust shop could do it, depends on quotes etc i guess, perhaps while your at it, get the wastgate joined in further down the dump pipe.

coolers, yeah rx7 are a very popular choice, smallish but good for 10-12psi, jap spec vr4 coolers are i think about 1/4 to 1/3 bigger than the rx7 and work very well, can handle more boost...but don't forget the bigger the cooler and the longer the piping the more lag youll be creating...

brakes, yeah either ac or magna, i nkow for a fact that if you get magna brakes even for now, you can then jsut bolt on vr4 discs nad calipers onto the magna hubs in future if desired...
magna rear brakes are a bit more of an effort, but apparently a great improvement, tho there are advantages with drums too.

MPI, can't say about sonata, never seen one, but for ease of fitment etc, ealry model ie 90 etc galant SOHC are a direct bolt on multipont manifold, you may want to upgrade injectors, rx7 550cc injectors would be fine, but depends what power your after, maybe just lancer gsr injectors..??..l300 manifold doesn't bolt straight up to 4g62 heads, it does work on 4g63 SOHC heads tho...you can wire it up to the standard ecu's but for the added bonuses, suggst aftermarket programable, microtech new will set you back about 1500 to buy and tune, if you can wire it in yourself, wolf 3d work well, ems, anything should work...microtech can run 4 seperate coils for ignition, again, these added bits are for more power but if that's not huge concern, a basic ecu tuned would be fine. i was tol dthe microtech could run from my stock cordia dizzy as is for cas purposes, others sugget the sonata i think it is opticle dizzy etc...jus task the ecu people when you are after one..
note, you can get good power form the stock efi and injectors, ie under 14sec quarters easily...and i'd say up to about 135-150 kw atw with stock efi...

a high flow turbo is a resonale upgrade, or custom, ie tdo5 ehaust ona tc06 compressor gives good spool but good power too...

knox auto carpets do cordias are a big carpet place, they in vic, frieght anywhere and about 140 or so for a complete carpet...


hope that can give a bit on insight..

Dylan

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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 20:24 
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Hi Steve - good memory you have there. The tri-star grille badge you kindly gave me at the first Melbourne meet is the most outstanding part of my car!!!

I also appreciate your input here, and I do realise that most of the info I need is probably around here somewhere but it is scattered to the 4 corners and not easy to get a balanced idea of what's best to do.

I will certainly check out EvoAuto when I get my plan of attack together.Is Performance Exhaust in Ringwood still the best place for a good exhaust?

Promise I won't ask any more Qs for a bit......

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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 23:03 
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JAPRCR wrote:
knox auto carpets do cordias are a big carpet place, they in vic, frieght anywhere and about 140 or so for a complete carpet...

Dylan


Hey dude could you give me a bit more info on this :)

Cheers :P

EDIT: Is this it?

http://www.knoxautocarpets.com.au/prices.htm

If so have you had any experience with the quality/fit of these carpets. :)


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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2004, 23:39 
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Alright for the door skins what you do is this.

You go to the fabric shop and buy some vynal for cheap. In my experience there is many hot chicks working at suitable ones, so this is an added bonus for the trip. Also when you are there buy some thin foam to go behind the vinyl.

Also when you are out, buy a hot glue gun, or a gun stapler with short staples. Depending on the condition of the wood in your door skins, you may wish to buy some more wood, and cut this to be the same as your skins.

Get some spray on contact glue too.

Use the spray on contact glue to glue on the foam to the bare wood door skins.

Yes you have done this step, now spread the fake leather over the door skins, and use the gun stapler or use hot glue to hot glue the vinyl around the corners onto the door skins. Cut out the approate holes in the vynal, and now you have some bling bling! Door skins.

You can do the rear panels in a smilar fashion homey.

Also the pinnicle which inside the guages are kept the lumpy bit on the dash, you can also do with this method nigga.

Buy lots of vynal paint from your local automotive store and paint the rest of the interior...

There you go. Sweet as G now you can have the primo interior to impress all da bitches!!!!

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2004, 10:45 
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Hey there Tyger, thanks for the laid back tutorial on reskinning door trims.

To JAPRCR, do I understand correctly that you're saying I can install a Galant MPI with pretty much whatever injectors and wire it all up to the standard ECU??? How is that done exactly?

I've pretty much decided the order of mods will be exhaust, 'cooler, suspension, brakes then small boost increase. Depending how the mechanicals hold up will probably dictate what gets done after that.

One last question for now. The RX7 'cooler seems to be pretty well endorsed around here so I may go with one. What are the choice places around Melbourne to look for one and what sort of $$ do they go for?

Thanks to all so far for your replies.

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2004, 11:27 
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try http://www.ausrotary.com for the cooler :wink:

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2004, 11:30 
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Firstly, if your going to do it once, do it properly, visit http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au/ and buy a Hybrid Bar n plate intercooler, $550 shipped, brand new, 3" thick and 600 x 300. This way you won't be doing this job twice when the RX7 intercooler starts to do nothing, after 300hp is achieved from your engine.

Next best thing, exhuast, 2.5" mandrell is quite good, make sure you get a really well built dump pipe and a hi flow muffler, doesn't have to be a name brand, just so long as it's got some numbers behind it to back it up by an independant source :D

I would look into the suspension next, keep the original height, you'll thank me later. Maybe go a lower profile tyre, with some coil overs. Get some new shocks, maybe damp adjustable and a front strut brace. Try to get all the rattles out of the car aswell if you can and if you have any. It'll be alot more enjoyable that way.

MPI, yes but you'll need a VR4 Galant ECU or an EVO 1,2,3 ECU. I'm not sure if you can use normal Galant one because of fuel control for boost conditions need to be considered. It may be better in the long run and definately cheaper than an aftermarket EMS as it is illegal to run a car on the road with one of them, well in S.A. ??

Always leave the interior to second to last, tidy it up to almost new condition but dont go overboard as you'll get more resale from hp atw then leather interior, that's like putting a swimming pool in your backyard when you live in a housing trust home, you'll never get your money back.

Leave the brakes to last, like the rest of us hahahhahahah, they are quite adequete if you service the rear drums regularly, and use Lucas pads on the front. So long as you don't push more than say 200hp, that'll be fine.

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2004, 20:59 
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Oz, it's ok i confused myself, i was thinking galant vr4 ecu wired in, nah sugest aftermarket.....

don't be affreid of boost increases, with a resonable cooler youll be happily daily running 12 odd psi and maybe 14/15 on really fun days...
so fit cooler then boost, not boost it last..!1

A10*&$*#@^%$%...why would he buy a cooler first that oyur talking 300hp but leave brakes till last for your claim of 200hp then upgraade....firstly i think the 600x300 cooler is fine for vr4s or big boost, but me thinks personally for most 1.8 cordias the 450x300 is abetter option, i can't imagine the lag if i had a 600x300 coller to fill before i saw possitive pressure..!!.....

yeah aftermarket ecus are illegal but without engineers (in vic at least) coolers are too..but i doubt if 99% of us have certs for these......hid the aftermarket ecu, play it cool keep it neat and factory looking, youll be fine..

Dylan

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2004, 22:30 
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Thanks JAPRCR, all good advice!

How is it coolers need a certificate?? Never heard that before, esp consodering how many around here and no doubt outside the forums have them on their Cordias. I imagine the engineers would be pretty anal about getting the installation "right", too.......

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2004, 22:53 
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the problem is that the 450x300 are more expensive than the 600x300 :(

About the brakes, they are fine to a certain point, if they are serviced regularly and looked after well then you can leave them till last, just don't wait till you crash before you decide to do something about them. ie no continous race style hard braking till you upgrade.

About ECUs' an original VR4 or EVO would still be cheaper than an aftermarket one + dyno tune.

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2004, 23:48 
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I can't imagine the stock height being any good, it looks a bit silly with huge 30 centremetre gaps between the wheel and the guard, and also the centre of gravity is a little high...

Sack it out, stuff handling, if it improves this is a bonus.

It should handle well on smooth roads with stiff springs, approate rate shocks, and sway bars....

If you want good handling on bumpy as roads, you'll want softer suspension.

Advantage of stiff low suspension is reduced bodyroll, so there is a more equal load on both sides of the car's tires.

So yeah, it's up to you, and I may be wrong, I fix airplanes, not cars.

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