Continued from the last post on page 6

Now this afternoon i also finished off my prep on the rear of the car. No more prep to do on the body itself at all now woo!!! Just the bonnet and nosecone to go.



Which brings me to a point.

After much pondering. Im going to be trialing the combonation of the acrylic laqure for the colour, but will be using an Iso-Free 2k for the clearcoat. This is odd yes. But Hi-Chem say its 100% compatible with there acrylic colour system.
So im going to be buying a small tin of it to test on just the wing. Its a bit more expensive, but it will give me the bennifits of a 2k finish, with no horrible gasses being inhaled or laws/regulations being broken.
If all works out the whole car will be done in it .

Anywayas thats where im up too with the progress for the moment

Nice Damien.........I've heard of guys doing the "acrylic" over "enamel 2 pak" before..........you can put enamel over acrylic but not the other way around........just make sure the basecoat is perfect........as touch ups with acrylic will "craze" which will require full removal of the paint or an isolator.

If it were me I'd stick with acrylic.........easy to repair.

Point taken Andrew.
We shall see though, depending on what the results are from a test spray.

My main reasoning is, although yes Acrylic is heaps easier to repair. Im simply looking into this because the car will be driven regularly and in QLD sun, I wish for it to be lowish maintenance. (although i will make an effort to keep it waxed, I don't wish to have to regularly cut back the car to keep it pretty).

Will let you know how i go

Also found somone to rebuild that Fuel sender i mentioned in the previous posts. Going to cost around 100 bucks, which isnt too bad at all

Well spent the last 1:50min non stop on the bonnet. With a Paintremoval wheel on the grinder.

Just need to straighten a few dents on the bonnet, and then everything is ready for color

Well..... bonnet is getting there... So fudged its not going to ever be straight without bog.
Will be fine for the moment until I hunt down the GT bonnet with the raised scoop.

But will just need to be block sanded and then primed and its done.

I had to do the same with the AC bonnet, very difficult to get "dead" straight.......when you rub the bog/high build putty back as you actually "bend" the panel.......I too are looking for a "better" bonnet.

Ageed.. and Especially since the subframe on this one has a bit missing!!!!! It makes that issue worse.

But i sorta got around the flex issue by resting it on a pile of old sheets packed tight under the middle of the bonnet

UPDATE!

Mixed and bought my colour and clear coats on saturday morning!

Its a tweaked version of the stock H39 Kaiser Silver (Gunmetal grey I call it).
Has a slight amount of extra black to darken it just a shade or 2. But heres the real cool bit the original H39 is a metalic right. So me and the paint guy played around with some perls ;P. Its now a Metalic Perl.

It looks epic. When its on the car its going to look like it could have been stock colour, but just has IMO been improved slightly over the original .

Bonnet getting some final blade filler wiped over a couple of spots that where still slightly rough after all the previous work. Bonnet isnt perfect but again it will do until i find another straight one.



Heres the paints Just some tins but im excited so took a photo hahah!

First panel with some of the colour on it

No clear yet. Loving this DuPont Acrylic. Goes on so smooth and even.

Just an update. (no pics sorry).

Weather has been HORRIBLE! the last couple weeks.

But on the bright side last couple afternoons have been clear. So I now have both the front guards painted and clear coated.
And bonnet is in progress. Finished spraying the underside of it, ready for the heatsheild when it arrives.
Tomrow if still nice and clear day, will start putting colour on the ourside of the bonnet

So its getting there. I am hoping if weather permits all the panels/body should be sprayed in the next couple of weeks.

Another sneak peek.

Shes Getting there!

Ok amendments to the wiring complete. Relays and fuses are in a nice box now.
Also fixed the Start up issue, as hooked up the starter signal to the ECU

Now I have to relocate this Airbox to where the battery currently is and relocate the battery to the boot... Oh how it goes on... -_-

Looks great Damien......but why didn't you use the original GSR main control relay?

That way you wouldn't need to make what you have just done, and it's in the passenger compartment.

Great detail and congratulations on the build. :)

Thanks

But yes good point Andrew. (and I do actually have a full GSR harness at home).
However after pondering that, i still went with this, as there is so much about the car that is different from a GSR as well anyway..
This will also be housing a number of other things in the future. (driving lights etc)
But at the end of the day at least I know all the wiring is new and I know how it all went together. I probally would have spent just as much time making the GSR stuff work with the 63 Harness. (actually am not running any of the cordia engine harness, its been converted to the harness that came with the 4g63 thats in it now).

Getting there boys!

Intake piping fitted, airbox in final location, AFM wires extended, brackets welded up.
Just have to put a lick of paint on the airbox and brackets and we are done with the engine bay after a good clean

Good stuff, looking great!

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

I like your radiator, had the same one in my pulsar

_________________
"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.

Thanks guys!

Yeah it works great.
Its a 96 Mazda Astina alloy radiator.