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PostPosted: 30 Jan 2014, 11:12 
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Your car: Cordia turbo 4g63 vr4 motor
hey all I have been reading up about balance shaft delete kits and it seems they are very dangerious for a 4g if u don't mechiene the oilpump it can cause to much oil psi now I had a mate put one in my motor when it was built and was not aware of this problem at the time and now I know im scared. it idles at 70psi and driving sits on about 20psi is this ok it dosnt seem high? has anyone come across this at all

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PostPosted: 30 Jan 2014, 13:34 
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I went into this with quite a lot of detail in my build thread, but here goes.

Firstly, ensure the balance shaft removal kit installed was genuine. This is important as the genuine stub shaft has an oiling groove around the circumference of the shaft which allows for far superior lubrication. The poorly engineered kits with the oiling hole, but no grove, lubricate with just a few degrees of oil contact. The cheaper kits have destroyed many engines in the past.
Image

With the stub shaft out of the way we can move on to the fun stuff, sorting out the oil pressure. As most would know, oil viscosity can directly have an effect on oil pressure. Since engines I build typically run 15w50, the figures I mention are relative to that.

When balance shafts are removed on first gen 63's, the downside is undesirable excessive oil pressure. I have seen oil pressures at over 120psi and this (from experience) has caused to seals to blow out and leak oil. The issue occurs as the outlet for the oil pressure relief valve (on the oil filter housing) is not large enough to operate sufficiently with the increased rate of change in oil pressure. The pictures below show how to rectify the issue.

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Image

Note: The size and shape of the porting is important. There is no need for the outlet to be larger than the inlet and the shape must be so that the top of the piston valve seals when the valve is shut. The best way to do this is to port a D shape and widen the hole, this minimises the distance that the piston needs to travel and relieves more pressure sooner.

It Is important to remember that the pressure relief valve is to bleed off excessive (above 90ish psi) when the spring tension is overcome by oil pressure. The problem in most cases is that when the valve is open, the hole is not large enough to flow the additional supply. This mod does not alter overall system pressure, it helps regulate the surplus to Mitsubishi specs.

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PostPosted: 31 Jan 2014, 18:34 
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so that's whats causing my weird oil pressure problem

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PostPosted: 01 Feb 2014, 01:11 
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Does your oil pressure go over 90Psi when your wide open throttle in first or second? The peak pressure will be when acceleration is maximum.

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PostPosted: 01 Feb 2014, 15:57 
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When you installed the stub kit, or whatever it is you and your friend did, did you spin the bearing shells to block the oil ports. You have to spin them, i think there is 2 of them.

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PostPosted: 01 Feb 2014, 17:23 
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If he had not the engine would have failed by now

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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2014, 14:14 
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at WOT I get 20psi oil pressure and at idle I get 75psi its weird if I go up in throttle I loose pressure

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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2014, 14:14 
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I have put 590ks on the engine already

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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2014, 14:29 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
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What sender unit are you using?

Aftermarket or stock?


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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2014, 16:52 
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aftermarket autometer

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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2014, 17:40 
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In order of possible cause:

1. Kinked oil pressure nylon tubing.
2. Oil pump faulty
3. Engine is faulty. (Excessive clearance during revs?)

Your engine wont last long with 20psi oil pressure.

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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2014, 17:48 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
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What does the factory gauge tell you?

Don't worry about the aftermarket one for now, unless you have removed the stock sender unit to drive the original gauge.


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PostPosted: 05 Feb 2014, 18:13 
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stock one dosnt work
and its got to the head

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