hey,

i just bought a cordia turbo today.... about time!!! and theres a problem with the clutch, like when you put all the way in it doesnt want to engage sometimes and if i try to change gears sometimes it just wont go in or it'll crunch gooood! i bled the clutch and was wondering is there so how i can adjust the clutch because its a hydraulic and i cant see any thread's on it?

and when its half workin friction point is practically to the ground... could this also be a gearbox problem? also is high beam turned on by pushin indicator forward? because high beam wont stay on, it'll go on if you hold it back but thats about it.

email me on icey_cold_is@hotmail.com

thanxs heaps!!!

I'm not sure about the clutch as I have no experience with them.

For the high beams you tap the indicator towards you and it should click in place.

yeah i've tapped it in but it doesnt stay on? but the high beams do work though, only if i hold it inwards... i was thinkin u tap it inwards and it would stay on?

Cordia high beams are one-pull-on one-pull-off types, so yes when you pull it towards you it should click and stay on high beam, then pull it towards you again and it will click and go to low beam...

Sounds like there's something wrong with the stalk... get an auto elec to see if it can be fixed. You can replace the stalk but they're fairly pricey I think, so I'd get it looked at to see if it is fixable first.

Astaroth.

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Clutch wise, try to check for a leak..staining/paint removal on fire wall under master cylinder, also check the other end, under the pedals..mine runs fluid down there atm...also check the pedal free play push it in gently with your fingers should have nothing for about 1/2 and inch or there abouts, if it's raelly hard from the very start or has too much free play, using 14mm spanners x2, under the pedals on the firewall you can adjust the pushrod to pedal clearance.....all things failing...i sthe clutch ok.??..g/box out to check.....

Dylan

well the last person said the changed the seals on master cylinder, so its not leakin anymore...but the clutch pedal is soooo light. but sometimes it feels like the tiniest bit firm. yeah the clutch itself is fine, like if i put it in 1st with the clutch all the way in sometimes it'll stall, so i think the clutch disc is fine.
i think the problem is that the push rod on either end isnt long enough and cant push the clutch fork in far enough? was wondering if you know how to adjust it?

thanks

check for an internal clutch master cylinder leak... or of course external slave cylinder leak if its loosing fluid.
If its not this, then welcome to my world of distroying clutches every month.

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hey.

me again... i talked to a mechanic and they think the master cylinder is pitted, like i need to get sleeved. because the last person just changed the seals (soo theres no leaks). i half started takin the master cylinder off (2 nuts, 1 above, 1 below) and it slides out but i had no idea how i was supposed to remove the hose, like theres a big fat nut that looks like it holds the hose to the master cylinder (19mm bolt) but i wasnt sure to undo it or not. or if i trace the hose it gets to a bracket which hose the hose which then turns into metal piping.

any idea's which side i should take it off from? and would undoing that 19mm bolt off the side of the master cylinder disconnect it for the hose?

thanxs...

p.s. master cylinder is gonnna cost me $250-$300, so im takin this one off so it can be rebuilt for around $130 (new sleeves and what-not)

Undo the 19mm Banjo bolt on the side of master cylinder, thsi will do what you want...yeah replacing seals on a fudged cylinder bore is stupid, tho i tryied it and for 7 bucks instead of 145 for a new one...it's worth ago, lucky i have access to brake fluid, handy when it needs topping up every 2/3 days coz it's leaking onto the inside of hte firewall...

can't adjust slave cylinder pushrod, only mastercylinder pushrod from up under pedals....bolt cylinder back on before you undo the banjo bolt or youll prolly break something..

Dylan

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well i've just goten the cylinder off the firewall and yeah that fat bolt (19mm) is a bi-yatch to get off... i'll try bolting it back on first but the problem is theres too much crap in the way..?

and yeah i noticed you could adjust the pushrod under the pedal but the problem is theres only like 1.5cms before the whole rod comes out...

but yeah i'll try to get that 19mm bolt off, if not im just going to take the whole line off with it (just before metal piping), but theres this clip (the clips that hold door locks in) i have to take off but it doesnt look to hard.

any waiz i'll keep at it, and thanxs for the help... hopefully i get a manual soon! still got a fair few things before i can get a RWC...

Saweeeet!!!

got that bolt off, yeah took your advice, moved the something hooked up to the fuel line (not sure what it was?) anyways bolted it back to the firewall and got a socket with a really long pipe as leverage and popped it off! and its getting re-sleeved and what-not... and im hoping this fixed my problem!

I had the same trouble with my clutch, right on the floor, crunching gears etc, adjusting the push rod fixed it, it doesn't need much adjustment, only a few turns seems to move the release spot quite a bit. You need to unlock the lock nut before turning the rod,