*clears throat* Ahhhh herm
Step 1: Jack up rear of car
Step 2: Remove rear wheels
Step 3: You are now looking at 2 rear drums. The cap in the middle, remove it, some like to remove it with a set of multigrips, or you can remove it with a screwdriver and a hammer. Once that is off, wipe all the excess grease off with a rag. Remove the split pin, and the cage. Now remove the retaining nut. Remove the drum. NOTE: It may need to be hit on the FRONT to loosen the shoes from the sides.
Step 4: There is 2 rear wheel bearings on each side. Remove them from the drum, they will just be able to be taken out, both front and rear. Open up your box of rear wheel bearings. You will notice that the new bearings are sitting in cones. These cones are NOT just there so the bearing does not get damaged in the packet and to be disgareded as ive seen people do before. Look inside the drum where the wheel bearings go, with the shaft of the hub runs. See the cones in the drum? They need to be hit out. With a punch, and a fairly big hammer. NOTE: some cones can be really stuck in, and need a really good bash to get them out. AVIOD hitting the housing of the drum with your punch. You want to aim only for the cone, if you damage the old cone, it does not matter, as you got the new ones in the packet! Of course you will clean all the grease out of the centre of the drum before you go hitting the cones out, this simply makes it a cleaner task, and you can see indents for the punch so the cones can be hit out. Hit both front and rear cones out of the drum.
Step 5: With the cones hit out of the drum, Just wipe over the area again, making sure its all clean. Get the new cones, and put them in the drum, you will notice they are an interferance fit, and will need to be hit in. Just *start* the cone by tapping it in square, once it is started, get the old cone that you just hit out, and use that to hit the new cone in. NOTE: You CAN hit the cones in backwards, and ive seen it done. Think where the bearing sits, and you cannot get it wrong. Its possible to get it wrong, but very difficult. More often than not, Once the new cone is in the drum, the old cone in which you used to hit in will just fall out. And your left with the new cone perfectly in place. Do this for both the front and rear cones.
Step 6: Ok, its time to take the new rear wheel bearings out of their little bags and pack them with grease. You need to use a type of High temprature wheel bearing grease. This stuff is cheap, and you can buy it from anywhere, including most petrol stations. If you have a wheel bearing grease packer, use it and you ready to install the wheel bearings, if not, read on. Put a small amount of grease in your hand, and start rubbing the wheel bearing into the grease, not back and forth, only one way, and you should notice the grease coming out the other side of the bearing. This is when they are 'packed'. Do this all around the bearing until it is filled with grease.
Step 7: Ok, so now you have got new cones in your drum, your wheel bearings are packed and ready to roll (pardon the pun). Install the rear REAR wheel bearing in the drum, and install the drum back onto the car. Install the front rear wheel bearing and washer, locknut, NEW split pin, cage, and drum cap. Roll the wheel around a few times to make sure its all smooth and you havent done anything wrong, and hey presto your done. New rear wheel bearings.
Something a mechanic will charge around $200, that most people can do themselves. A rear wheel bearing set will cost around $50. Grease about $5. Allow around 2 hours. Its a good fun, non stressful job. So if you've got noisey rear wheel bearings, consider doing it yourself rather than taking it straight to the mechanic and hurting your back pocket.
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GT Legacy - AWD turbo shagin wagon Swift GTi - new boy racer daily Gen4 JDM Honda Prelude VTiR - FS $6K. pm me. vtec yo!
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