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 Post subject: Rekitting Slave Cylinder
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2004, 08:23 
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Joined: 02 Sep 2003, 18:40
Posts: 2428
Location: Canberra
Your car: 3 Litre Magna
Thanks to patJ for the article

Well first of all you need 4 of those axle stands, especially if your car is lowered(mines stocko wheels n shit so i got on the ground and just managed without stands but i recommend them highly).

1. Go to Repco and ask for a Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo Clutch Slave Cylinder Seal Kit. Mine was 18 bucks or something.

^^ok this is the slave cylinder setup. the metal line is the hydraulic fluid line - you'll need to unscrew it later. the lever thing is the clutch lever and the black bumpy thing next to the lever is the rubber seal that goes over the slave cylinder.

^^ok main bits of this pic are the clutch lever, hydraulic line - and the black rubber seal that goes over the slave cylinder on the left
^^this is the bottom view of the setup looking upwards (that grease shit is just brake fluid leaking from the cylinder). ok the clutch lever is on the left, rubber seal over the start of the slave, slave cylinder covered in fluid and the hydraulic line. note the nut that is used to screw in the hydraulic line. also note that large bronze nut (about 12mm) - dont unscrew that at all as i did - it has a hole drilled in the middle of it carefully placed so it lines up with a valve coming from the hydraulic line connection - move it sideways and your fluid wont have anywhere to go.
ok various bits and pieces after i pulled it out
From left to right:
old outside seal, another bit of that seal, clutch lever, slave cylinder, new outside seal, new piston seal (main seal), new bleed valve seal. ALSO note the bleed valve on the left side of the slave, opposite the bronze nut.

-10 mm socket/spanner
-12 mm socket/spanner
-bit of vaccumm hose about 20 cm long (any hose will do as long as it fits well over the bleed valve)
-coupla bottles of new dot 5 brake fluid
-shitty container/jar
-long-nosed plies
-thin fabric (e.g. bed sheet)

Step 1 - Drain the Fluid.
-Remove airbox piping (its in the way)
-From under the car or through the bonnet, place the vaccumm hose over the bleed valve. put the other end of the hose in the container.
-unscrew the nut on the bleed valve (10 mm should do it)
-pump the clutch until all the fluid is out of the system via the bleed valve
-screw the valve back up and put away the vac hose and container for later.

Step 2 - Undo Fittings, Remove The Slave Cylinder.
-The slave cylinder is bolted to the car by two 12mm bolts. These screw into the chassis and do not have a nut. The top one is harder to get to. In the last picture i posted you can see the two bolt holes in the slave cylinder so try and find them using the picture as a reference point. Undo these bolts and put them somewhere where you're not going to lose them - like with the vac hose and container for example.
-using the 10mm spanner - undo the nut on the hydraulic line that connects it to the slave. Some fluid may come out so dont wear good clothes. Now in the second last picture and the one before that - theres a pin that holds a bolt in the clutch lever setup. Straighten out the pin and pull it out of its spot. There is nothing holding the slave cylinder now so it should fall down (catch it!).

Step 3 - Cleaning, Re-sealing.
-pull the clutch lever end away from the slave cylinder end so that the two parts come away separately(see last pic for reference of the two bits)
-Here's the hard part - there's a piston (mine was pink ) inside the slave cylinder. To get it out - first undo the 10mm nut on the bleed valve and aim it away from your body. Push the piston in as far as it will go(fluid will piss out) and quickly release it. Hopefully the spring will push it up and out. If you can't get it out this way then bash the slave cylinder down onto something hard until the piston comes out a bit. Bash it slightly on the side so the piston can come out a little bit more(if you dont put it sideways then it cant come out as its touching the ground). Get some long-nosed pliers and a bit of thin rag (like an old bed sheet for example). Fold the sheet over twice and place it over the end of the slave cylinder. Grasp the piston in the long-nosed pliers as firmly as you can and pull it outta there. If you dont use a sheet then it'll slip and cut that fragile aluminium piston.
-Once the piston's out you'll see for sure whether or not the seals fudged. Dont be downcast if its not (it mean's your clutch is most likely buggered), because at least your putting new reliable seals in.
-Clean every metal bit with brake fluid. I would just fill a margarine container or something half way and do every bit one by one.
-If the piston seal is buggered then it should be easy to get off, If not the just cut it off with scissors or whatever.
^^Make sure you put the piston seal like what is shown in the BOTTOM DIAGRAM. I buggered it up the first time and it leaked so I had to do it all again.
-Put the piston back in (make sure the spring's in) and put that big concertina style seal over the lever bolt (long bolt that goes into the slave that the piston pushes to engage the clutch) if you feel its necessary.
-Bolt the slave cylinder back up, reconnect the hydraulic line taking care not to fark the blardy thread up as i did. Push that bolt through the clutch lever as before and replace the pin.
-Fill the clutch fluid reservoir with clutch fluid and start to bleed the clutch:
-Put your vaccum hose on the bleed valve.
-Pump the clutch until fluid starts coming through the bleed valve.
-Get a mate to hop in the drivers seat.
-Get your mate to hold the clutch in fully (fluid will cain outta valve). While the clutch pedal is still fully in - close the bleed valve completely.
-Let off the clutch
-Top up the reservoir.
-Undo the bleed valve nut and get mate to hold clutch in fully.
-Tighten up the nut and get him to release the clutch, Top up the reservoir.

Repeat these steps for 4 or 5 cycles to get all the air out.

-Replace the intake piping.
-Start car in neutral.
-Try to shift into first while the engine is running.

If you can then its fixed, if you cant then its new clutch time or master cylinder.

Gallo 24 all the way

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